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We were undecided whether to skip or visit Las Lenas. It's Argentina's premier ski resort but is supposed to be a multi activity summer destination as well. We booked three nights' accommodation hoping to hike and horse ride. Before leaving Mendoza we were hoping to eat at one the many Steak BBQ restaurants but their doors don't open until 8.30pm and Donna has hunger tantrums around 7.00pm, so we just glared through the windows instead (after we had already eaten). Our taxi picked us up in Mendoza at 5.00am and almost took us to the airport instead of the bus station. We arrived in Las Lenas Thursday afternoon to find that walks are guided and 3 hours max but there weren't any planned for our 2 days, there wasn't any horses available either because of the goat festival??? For a summer resort it's hardly open, which is a shame as the mountains are stunning. Trails that look interesting go through the piste areas and are closed due to new avalanche blasting system being fitted. Then we discovered there was no bus on Sunday, our planned departure date and none on Monday either - Tuesday yes. We managed to change our apartment booking to 2 nights so we could get a bus out of here on Saturday - giving us just one day here. We would go stir crazy if we were here until Tuesday. We booked a 4x4 off road tour for our only day then went to the supermarket. The door was open but it was in darkness! Our presence was heard and the lights went on - we wanted to buy lunch for tomorrow and the bus ride out of here. The bread shelves were empty, the meat counter was empty, the freezers were empty and so were the fridges, there was no milk. There was plenty of wine and beer and 3 packets of crisps. The 4x4 tour up to Laguna Escondida made the trip here worthwhile, the views were fantastic. Without the tour we wouldn't have got high and seen the area at its best. We parked up at just over 3000 metres and most of the group were complaining of headaches - we were fine! The guides were very impressed with my GPS device which showed our position and what altitude we were at, they insisted on showing it to everyone in both of the 4x4's to prove we were above 3000 metres. We stopped off to walk through an ice tunnel, visit the Laguna and drink Mate - an infusion of hot water and yerba plant leaves drunk though a bombilla (filtered metal straw). We were about 3km from Las Lenas when passengers started asking the driver to stop at a shack (in the middle of nowhere). There was no sign outside but everyone but us seemed to know what the building was, we all piled out and I followed them in to the ramshackle building - it was a bakery. We left with a freshly baked loaf, a bag of doughnuts and some bready cakey things. What a great tour. Another visit to the supermarket in search of something to go on our bread, lunch on our balcony then we went for a walk. We spotted a ridge behind our digs with a trail and no fences or keep out signs. An hour and a bit later and we had great views over Las Lenas and of the mountains. We dropped down to the poshest hotel in town - the only place that has Wi-Fi (for the price of a beer to non-residents). The plan was to book two nights in San Rafael (at the end of Saturdays bus ride from here) - everywhere was full or £1000.00 for 2 nights!!! Apparently, it's carnival time in San Rafael and a long weekend holiday. The other option was to get the night bus out of there the same day we arrived (to Brioche) but there wasn't one! Our options were limited - stay in Las Lenas until Tuesday (but we have already paid for our bus tickets on Saturday) or get a bus from San Rafael to Mendoza on Saturday (but it's the wrong direction, we have already been to Mendoza twice and we wouldn't arrive until 10.00pm). In the end we managed to book one night in San Rafael (Saturday) and a 14-hour bus ride out of there at 10.50pm on Sunday to Bariloche. Escaping from Colditz was easier than Las Lenas and San Rafael - our one day here though was excellent. We are hoping to fit some white water rafting in at Valle Grande (20km from San Rafael) between checking out of our San Rafael hotel Sunday morning and our bus much later that night - which is why we wanted two nights at San Rafael in the first place - whether we will or not remains to be seen. Lucas at the tourist office spoke perfect English and was a great help with bus info, bus tickets, booking the 4x4 tour, helping to change our apartment booking to 2 nights (as the staff speak no English) and rafting info - every time we went to see him we had another problem for him, he will probably be glad to see us leave. On checking out we bumped into Martin & Anna who we met at Peunte del Inca, they also couldn't find a hotel in San Rafael so decided to come to Las Lenas. One last thing to do before leaving here - visit the Llama enclosure, not too close though as they spit.
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Adam Cross Great reading guys! For someone who normally has everything booked and planned for the next 12 months, I hope you are taking all these changes and spontaneous decisions in good humour?! Manana! Adam