Leaving Bariloche didn't go as planned, first I tripped up in the bus station and with a big rucksack on my back and a daysack on my front I couldn't fight gravity and I hit the deck. Then our midday bus was over 2 hours late. We bought some empanadas in the bus station that were soggy and burnt, but fortunately tasted okay. No drinks or food was provided on the bus but we were well prepared for this. Occassionally the tarmac ended and we drove through clouds of dust caused by oncoming traffic, well we didn't actually drive (thank goodness). There are a hell of a lot of new VW, Nissan & Toyota pick ups here, but old beat up Fords, Chevvies and Dodges are also everywhere. Arriving at our hotel we were pleased there was a lift - Donna doesn't like lifts but prefers them to several flights of stairs with two rucksacks each to carry. The lift was an old style affair with an outer door and an inner concertina door - all opened and closed manually. When we opened the inner door to get out the second floor was at chest height! We decided to try to go up to 3 and walk down a level. We got out at 3 okay but the stairs down didn't go to 2! We seemed to be in the cleaners part of the hotel and there was no way to the rooms on 2. We walked back up to 3 but couldn't find another staircase to 2 so we braved the lift again - this time we did manage to get out at 2 and we found our room. Back in Las Lenas the breakfast was a glass of water, a small awful coffee, 3 tiny pieces of toast, some rancid butter and a blob of jam. Since then we have fared better, in fact cake and butties seem to make it into Donna's daysack for our lunch at each breakfast sitting! Esquel day 1 - only just arrived but we went to book our bus out of here - a 20 hour trip!! After buying the tickets we read online reviews stating that the buses were dirty, there was no food or drinks provided, only two very short stops. It's the only bus company that goes to our next destination though so we have no choice - something to look forward to then. We are in the county of Chubut - settled by welsh farmers in 1860. It was strange to hear Welsh being spoken (in a Welsh accent) when we dined out our first evening here. We took a bus to Trevelin - the Welsh stronghold around here. All I can say is it was extremely disappointing, it could have been any Argentinian town except for a Welsh dragon, flags and a few souvenirs. Day 2 - the tourist office informed us we would have to take a 2 hour bus journey to trek and a 2 hour bus back, but we are surrounded by mountains!! Donna found a trail marked on a tourist map of the town so we set off in search. We thought that some of the buildings in the town were ramshackle, but this trail took us through the 'shanty' part of town - quite shocking. We climbed up and through the shanties to reach the summit of a 3500 feet peak with great views. The wind got up, the temperature dropped, the sky went grey and we could see rain in the distance on the taller mountains. We expected a soaking and headed down quickly. We clocked up 10.5 miles and it didn't rain on us - great walk without a bus ride. Day 3 - this is why we really came here, La Trochita (The Old Pattagonian Express), a steam train like you see in Western Movies. It didn't disappoint, we were allowed to climb up onto the engine and pose for pictures. The scenery was great, we took over 300 photos in 3 hours! On the mountain we climbed on day 2, it says in large stones 'No Lamina' - we thought this was an objection to a National supermarket chain, but realised that is 'Anonima' not 'Lamina'. During dinner on our last evening here there was a peaceful protest for 'No La Mina' - there is gold in the hills around here but the locals don't want a gold mine to open here. Everyone in Argentina are Mate (Mat - Tey) mad. They seem to go everywhere with thermos flasks of hot water, a Mate mug and their leaves to infuse - in fact lots of people were drinking Mate and carrying their flasks during their no gold mine protest march. Shops everywhere sell everything the Mate drinker could desire, including matching flasks, cups, leaf tins and bags to carry it all in. Just about every souvenir shop sells Mate sets inscribed with the holiday destination name - their equivalent to our seaside rock perhaps? Good hotel here, great food and 'La Trochita' more than made up for that dead hole called Trevelin. Trevelin is quite like some places in Wales we have visited - seems shut even when open.