While the itinerary might look extensive, it only takes 50 minutes for us to fly from Varanasi. Immediately, you realise that Kolkata is different, the taxi is 75% cheaper than Mumbai, the hotel 50%, while a vastly superior road infrastructure, policed junctions, make the passage thru brilliant, neon lit streets, a lot quicker. The only thing that slows down your passage are antiquated trams, they've had the sense to ban cows and tuk tuks in the CBD! Mind you, being transported by the ubiquitous Indian car, the Ambassador, it wouldn't have mattered what got in the way. These '60's vehicles are tanks on wheels. With most old buildings in need of repair, classic, old cars etc, there's something a litttle like Havana, Cuba going on here!

For some reason, Calcutta has always been on my radar. We have two walking tours to do in the day, both with the same guide. I really like this option, you don't miss a thing, it's personal and, you get to ask supplementaries! Our guide, Ramanuj, has a lot to say for himself, a proud Bengali, who wants to tell us how much better they are than the rest of India. Colonialism is a moot subject these days, however, let's keep it one dimensional. The CBD used to be the admin heart of the British; huge, colonaded buildings that used to house the Post Office, insurers etc, surround Dalhousie Square. Entrances wide enough to ride in your horse, which, of course, the officers did, having an orderly park them on the roof terrace. A lake for fishing, it was actually the first pure water source, the fishing was mainly men and women! Every building had a story which we were eager to learn. At the law courts he told of seconded British judges living "in house" for 6 month stints so as not to be affected by Indian life and form an opinion, other than law. He referred to the British and their "Birmingham suits", tailored three pieces while walking us, with the occasional pit stop. A saffron, ginger Chai with a samosa was wonderful street food. A population of nearly 18 million is supported by 180,000 food hawkers. There are hawkers everywhere, however, in an ordered way, those close to the Post Office sell office supplies etc. We visited a cobbler who repaired by shoes for 25p, while there were money vendors next to banks. Why? Changing money involves queues and forms, small businesses need small change. You give them a 100 rupee note, they give you 90 rupees of change in an instant. They say "Indians will find a niche" when it comes to entrepreneurial thinking. The biggest newspaper still posts the whole newspaper on bus stops to attract business and inform the public. There is a public, and private rapid transit system, well.. buses and an extensive metro. Basically, Kolkata works. We visited the Parliament building, where the 100 year lease of Hong Kong was negotiated but not signed. The British Parliament was not happy and the Viceroy was sacked upon his return. There's a novelty, politicians and executive bureaucrats being responsible for their mistakes! Many buildings still have the boards that tell which business is on which floor, it's a who's who of successful British businesses.

Ramanuj took us to his lunch hang out; it looked dreadful, dark, dingy and deserted. They'd known him since he was a kid. A number of excellent dishes followed, by the time we left, it was heaving. The afternoon tour was more about immigrants, their adaptation, religions and impact. There are three synagogues, yet the Jewish population of Kolkata is 18! How do they support these building, the biggest quite magnificent? Simple, the Muslim population, that's how! A Chinese place of worship had us meeting two elderly gentlemen who were keen to tell of their heritage. The one thing he didn't know, at 75, is how he got here! There is a fire temple where the worshippers are called Parsi Zoroastrianisn! Only they are allowed to see the flame, only they have a sash around their waist under their garments. Freddy Mercury used to be a follower. There was a Scottish church, St Andrews, that used to be a courthouse before passing through the most incredible market. It was a huge area of narrow streets, full of tricycles and vans csrrying goods, thousands of people, again, with similr goods all close to one another, you'd pass through opticians to light switches, to fancy goods. It was also interesting to see how one culture adjusted to another. For instance, a Muslim cake shop had been making Christmas cakes, for seven generations!

If you were only to do one Indian city that doesn't have the ability to affront the senses as others do, Kolkata is the one for you. If you want bling, Mubai will work and, if you want history, then Delhi will tick your boxes.