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We were fully aware that we wouldn`t be able to get a direct bus from Baños to Cuenca, so we weren`t surprised when we were informed that we needed to change in Riobamba. What surprised us was how busy the bus was going to be. Due to the amount of people there were no seats for us in the normal part of the bus, so the driver let us sit next to him. Mez scored and got the comfy seat that the ticket man normally sits in. Emma and I however sat on a small ledge that was situated directly behind him. Emma had the gear stick nearly between her legs and I was nearly sat on the handbrake.
We were the "fortunate" ones as some people didn`t even have a ledge, and when we were pulled over by the police due to the amount of people that were on the bus everyone who did have a seat or ledge were made to get off. Not sure if they got their money back, but we did hear the driver complaining and we think they needed to pay a fine. This didn`t seem to discourage him from picking up more passangers, and 10 minutes down the road there were just as many people.
On the same bus journey, once was had managed to secure proper seating I discovered that I wasn`t just sitting next to a man, but a man with a live chicken on his lap. Luckily for the chicken and for me, it didn`t move or flap its wings in anyway, because it may have become a dead chicken if it had done so. Mez later in the journey was sat near some live guinea pigs, so they really were letting anything on this bus.
So we arrived on a Saturday and didn`t really do much that night. Sunday is market day in the nearby town, so we caught a bus there. This is a fruit and veg market really and although it was great to see a traditional market, it didn`t really have that much to offer tourists. There is also an animal market in the same town which we went to. This was good, although not as big, and we got to see puppies for sale, as well as guinea pigs and chickens. I don`t believe those are for pets though.
Since seeing the guinea pigs for sale (alive), Emma and I decided that we really should try them, since they are a traditional dish in South America. We found a stall that was selling them and we picked the one we wanted. $10 and also the chance to be on Ecuadorian television. The crew interviewed us as we were about to tuck into it, Spanish not being our first language it wasn`t the best, but with many giggles we made it through.
For those who are interested, the crispy skin tasted like chicken, whilst the meat was a mix between rabbit and chicken depending on which part you were eating.
Another market, in Chordeleg this time. It was mentioned in the lonely planet, and this was the only reason that we went. Waste of time. There was nothing there apart from the shops that would have been there anyday, and sold the same stuff that we later purcharsed in Cuenca at a cheaper price.
Monday and this was the day to explore the actual town of Cuenca. We started off with going to the local markets here, and a typical breakfast was consumed there before going to the other markets to spend the last of our money. We arrived at 9.45 and nothing was open. Aparently they have monday morning blues here, and sleep in. (We later returned after 11 and things were in full swing.)
Instead we headed to parque calderón which is the main square and home to not just one, but two cathedrals (bit greedy in my opinion). Took a wee peek inside the newer of the two and it was impressive, understand why they decided to build it. Walked along Calle Sucre past the lovely smelling flower market and made our way to a few more churches.
Cuenca has more churches than I think it knows what to do with, and by no means did we see them all, but we saw as many as we could. We ventured along the river bank, which they are currently doing up, so although it could have been a nice stroll, it turned into more of a clamber over piles of rocks.
We went past the inca ruins which are just at the side of the road, and up into the Pumapungo part of town. This is hidden behind the museum, but is not attached to it. Our intention had been to go to the museum after, but since this was free and we got to walk round the grounds of the inca site, see typical birds from Ecuador in the avery and see a baby llama eating its mum`s poo we were quite content with just that. The museum is meant to be spectacular and worth a visit but after 7 weeks we are a bit museumed out. On the way out of the complex we saw a further two llamas, clearly a male and a female and they seemed to be having a very good time lol.
In Quito we had seen many hairdressers and places for manicures, Cuenca is half the price. We would have paid $5 in Quito, but here we only paid $2.50 for a haircut and I am more than happy with it. Even better since I know fair well it would have cost me at least ten times that back in Spain. So we saved some.
We lost some too. Whilst in Otavalo (north of Quito) we visited the local market there, where things were very cheap. Try as I might with my haggling skills we still didn`t manage to get things as cheap here, so if you see a bag or a hammock in Otalavo buy it there. Even if like us you would have to carry it round, it would probably be worth it.
Tomorrow our plan is to return to the food market here and purchase our breakfast there again. And then catch the bus back to Guayaquil. On the 15th the three of us all have flights going to different places. Mez will venture on to New York, whilst Emma will return to England. I will be catching a flight to Madrid where I will spend some time before hitting the beach in Campello and then back to Alcoy to start work.
This therefore will probably be my last update from South America. For those you have followed I will continue it in Spain if anyone is interested.
Hasta Luego.
- comments
Lisa Ive enjoyed the read :)
Andrea It's been amazing to follow your adventures - however, I am not tempted by roasted Guinea Pig! xx