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Stralsund 27 - 28th May
The city has so much to offer and storm bound we could not think of a better place to be. Somehow, we ( was it we or was it me?) misjudged the distance from Wiek, mainly I think because we assumed it would only take and hour or so to nip down the islands - in the event, we were slightly out in that it was a bit farther and took five hours. A fascinating passage along closely buoyed channels between the islands in shallow water for 25 miles which well illustrates the size of the "lakes," however, a wonderful sail in glorious sunshine. The city was a member of the Hanseatic League a confederation of trading cities from the 12th C deriving great power and wealth from its monopoly of the Baltic trade and links with Flanders and England, consequently many of its buildings are a magnificent reflection of that time. On approaching the harbour the city skyline is an unspoilt romantic collection of medieval city walls, ornate church towers and opulent roofs with earth coloured house fronts lining the quay all of which cry out to passing artists - It is said that in medieval days, teams of brickmakers and bricklayers would move from city to city, building brickworks then building a cathedral or church before moving on, and that even today, experts are able to tell from the style of brick which team of brickworkers was involved.
Much restoration has been carried out since re-unification and it is plain to see just how much money has been poured into the ex DDR region over the last 20 odd years. Sadly, and as a reminder of the price of war paid in suffering and tragedy by all sides, there are still some properties which have no known owner, standing unloved and semi derelict and where research continues to try to establish ownership. For landmark buildings, restoration from years of neglect is in all the stages of progress, some complete, others hardly started. The monumental scale of these brick churches is breathtaking and in St Mary's, which is particularly impressive, scaffold and construction netting is everywhere revealing in places the transformation between the neglect here and restoration there. In spite of all the odds, there are treasures still here which made me gasp - the silver organ pipes tower above the most perfect baroque ornamentation of angels and intricate craftsmanship and is one of the finest organs built around 1658 still in working existence -someone was playing Bach while we were there adding another dimension to the experience. The altar screen is a riot of medieval art and colour and gold. Set aside, was a comprehensive exhibition of photographs and text telling the story of Starlsund from 1930 to 1945. I stood in an emotional silence amongst a small crowd trying to come to terms with man's inhumanity to fellow man - my eyes filled with tears and I silently withdrew finding it difficult to cope with such cruelty. I am sure that every person there felt the same; wondering how it could have happened.
Visiting somewhere new often has special and unexpected rewards, yesterday we came across the most appealing bronze sculpture of three young girls by a water pump - which was flowing of course, into one of their buckets and overflowing as they were all so intent on looking down the road and pointing out something amusing to each other - their expressions are terrific and the joke is that from where you are standing, they are actually gawping at you!
The two day gale has abated and we are ready now to move out to the railway bridge which opens only every four hours or so - don't miss it. Our slot is a reasonable 12:20 which is a tribute to not having to bother with waiting for tidal times. This time, I have checked the distance and it will take us 5 hours.
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