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We survived our 1st night bus!!! 10 hours with no chickens or bad roads or all night karaoke - we were very lucky. Other people's tales of transport in Myanmar had us a little concerned. The break at the services had me smiling when the bus driver handed us a cold towel, toothbrush & toothpaste. All included for the ticket price of about £7 each, don't get that on the national express!
We had been pre-warned by other hostellers about the welcoming committee when we get off the bus & well, they definitely weren't wrong! Imagine having about half a foot of space to walk off the bus with 20 or so people circling the doors. It was as if the bus contained the Harrods sale & they were ready to storm the doors. They then follow you, selling you their expert taxi services as you walk crab like, side stepping along & around the bus to collect your luggage to then barter for a taxi.
We arrived at Peacock Lodge to find a lovely peaceful courtyard at 6.30am & were shown to our rooms, we were so grateful they were ready. After a good little snooze they offered us breakfast which we gladly took & we went for a bimble around our local area. Again such humble smiles & waves from the local people, you start to feel like an attraction yourself. Stopped for our 1st street food, a very safe banana pancake but hey it was really good. We walked to the walls of the fort, still undecided if we would go in to see the palace as it was also a big military establishment we saw the sign that ended with "we will crush all those against our union". It was a stark reminder of the distance this country has yet to come to actually be in a democracy. After a few conversations with people along the way, they definitely welcome the changes happening here & feel it is a chance to have a say. The general election is in 2015 & I hope that doesn't create conflict as the people choose democracy over military.
A fellow hosteller recommended seeing the outlaying sights of Mandalay by car. As it happened there was another couple who wanted to do the same so we booked a car for the next day. We first went to a gold leaf workshop. Man, those guys work hard, taking 6 hours of bashing a small piece of gold to get it to the size of a cd and as crazy thin it blows away with your breath. The lady's then either garnish ornaments with it or prepare small squares for ladies to annoint the Buddha with at their pagoda. We had a few giggles as we try & communicate with a man whose whole mouth & teeth are vampire red from chewing the betel nut which also acts as a mild stimulant.
We then were taken to a monastery on Sagaing Hill. Over 1500 monks reside here & at this time you are allowed to wander through their buildings freely. The monks were going about their daily business as we stumbled into areas where they were washing or the robes were hanging the dry on the line. To be honest this was the 1st place I felt that tourism could ruin. With only a handful of people arriving the small lanes made it already seem intrusive. If many coaches come, the quality of life for the monks could be badly effected. Nobody likes an audience everytime they move. They all queue up or their lunch at 11am and the sheer number of them in two lines is a great photo opportunity. As this place was free to visit we felt we should donate to the monastery as we honestly felt like we'd intruded on them. Unlike other monks in Asia both ladies and men can talk to the monks of Myanmar (usually only men) & funnily enough later on we met one of the monks. We asked if he found it intrusive. His response was that during the time queuing for meals he feels like a celebrity & often has to fight a smile. He also said the Europeans are more respectful at taking photos whereas the Chinese upset him as the put the camera right in his face. It was nice to know our trip to his monastery wasn't as intrusive for him as we felt but I wonder how long that will be before it changes.
After the monastery we drive further up the hill and the driver asks if we want to stop at a school. We all agreed and went in, it was a monastery school & the kids here are super cute. In Myanmar education is free for 3-10 years old, after that they have to pay or some lucky students can get scholarships but the majority of children then go to work. For orphaned children the monastery school also offers eduction. There was also a medical room that was well stocked, this service is also free for the students. The children were shy at first. Some running up saying hello then running away. Most had shaven heads and the boys wore saffron coloured robes, the girls wore pink ones. I enjoyed watching one of the people we journeyed with as she took photos. Her ability to put the children at ease to capture the most beautiful portraits was insane. Definitely wish to master that art as soon as possible.
We met one of the teachers and then she involved us in what they had learnt in class. It was an incredibly humbling experience & one we won't forget. We bonded with the children over blowing bubbles, making jewellery out of water lilles, they became more confident with us by every second. We spoke to the head about the school, the subjects they teach & the growth of the school over the years. The children were mesmerised by the camera. They often wanted to see the screen whilst the shot was taken more than being in the picture. Funny being surrounded by children as you take one then the excitement as they all want to see what the result is.
We then left to go to the top of the hill to the pagoda. Well, the pagoda offers stunning views over the area. I find myself a bit overwhelmed at views like this, I still can't believe we're in Myanmar. Only 7,00 English came last year, we're part of the total for this year. It's insane, it's a country I never expected I'd get a chance to visit. The people we're meeting are hardened travellers so for this to be out 1st main stop on our experience is mental. We don't feel out of our depth as everyone here is so friendly & helpful but I do get reminded at places like this how mad & lucky it is that we're here! Infact writing this at 10 days in the country we have only seen 9 English people.
We saw an artist up the top of this pagoda that caught our eye as he was created the most intricate paintings with tar so we treated ourself to a piece.
Back into the car and we were dropped and a ferry (well long boat thing!). This was the ferry to a site called Inwe, we had taken some time taking photos at the other places so our time was a little limited here but we managed to pack most of it in! After a short hop over on the water we choose a horse & cart. The area is too big to explore by foot and this seems to be the way to do it! Felt like we'd taken a step back in time as we relaxed it the cart clip clopping along the bumpy dirt tracks to out next stop!
You are keenly aware aware after a few days in Myanmar that life is cantered around the main religion, Buddhism. Although other religions are present, Buddhism is the majority. In fact most kids spend time in the monastery as a monk, mainly for education, with a large percentage staying a monk until later years. Myanmar is definitely Buddha after Buddha after Buddha! Reclining ones, tall standing ones, sitting ones, tiny ones, ones inside other ones!! It's hard not to become indifferent to what you're seeing but somehow they all stick in your head in their own special way.
We reach a lovely teak monastery. The large trunks supporting the monastery and inside lovely dark wood carvings with a golden Buddha shining out from the darkness. At another pagoda was a great large seated Buddha with a jungle backdrop of palm trees & rice paddies, small wear & tear on the stone made it just look mystical it that setting.
After Inwe we took the ferry back to the car & headed off to the insanely picturesque U-Bein Bridge. This bridge is the longest teak bridge in the world. It has no rails and crosses a river that at its current height was about 7 metres deep although that increases by a few in wet season. We decided to take a boat out to take it all in as the sun fell, watching as locals, monks & many others took to walking the bridge. At over 200 years old very little has had to be replaced & it wobbles & creaks to remind you.
We took some great pictures from the water and then docked halfway up the bridge so we could walk the way back to shore. Here is where the monk from the earlier monastery approached us to practise his English. It was impeccable, actually the people have surprised me by their good language skills including fluent French & Spanish. He spoke of business, politics, the ever changing Myanmar and it was awesome. I'm unsure what it was about that place and I'm sure it's a mix of lots rather than one factor. But the mix of water, dusk, the monks, the friendly locals all merging on this ancient bridge will stay in both our memories so clearly. A mesmerising place.
I do wonder how mass tourism will impact places like this, this bridge will never without coach loads on it at one time. At some point the locals will stop smiling & once that happens that change will be irreversible. For us to be here right now is very lucky and what a brilliant day we had.
The next morning we were discussing what to do when the heavens opened & properly let loose. So we relaxed! That afternoon it cleared so us and another couple took the drive up to the top of Mandalay Hill. I figured my feet (although holding steady) weren't ready for a 45 minute uphill barefoot climb! We were dropped off by the escalators & were treated to an unexpected sight. The people of Myanmar have not used escalators before, even the buildings in the city didn't seem to have them. A few ladies were waiting at the bottom waiting & unsure how to even get on these moving things. They went to go time and time again building up the courage but bottling it at the last minute. We tried to help them on and at 1st they were unsure but although probably quite scared they followed our lead and we made it up the three escalators. There was a lovely moment up the top with laughter as they relaxed in their relief of making it up and thanked us.
Again the view from the top was stunning. Even in the city you could see so much green land in the distance and only one high rise building (3 floors!). After taking in the view we begun the 45 minute barefoot descent. We took our time moving down the different pagodas on the way. We met many people going up and well, their fitness level is just on a different level to mine! We had a few chats with people longing to practise their skills as we discussed work, family etc.
Bed early as an early start to Bagan in the morning.
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