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24 June, to Baton Rouge Louisiana
The old Dodge Charger was getting dirty so I took it back and swapped it for something a bit more zippy - a Dodge Magnum, which is what we'd call an estate. It is black with gangsta darkened windows and looks so much better (and doesn't have the whining diff!).
Walmart was first stop. George and Phil will confirm that I am the worst for wasting hours looking round, and my family tell me that I could buy the t shirts I get in Asda - but I do like to peruse the gun counter. Talking of which, the guys who drove me around in Birmingham the other night were "carrying" - they had a gun of some sort just in the passenger footwell. The car was owned by the estate agent, and he said he sometimes has to show people round houses in dodgy areas, and that was his primary reason for carrying it.
Then I hit the road to Louisiana, passing through Mississippi en route. I stopped first at Biloxi (IIRC there are John Grisham novels based in Biloxi) to go on the beach, which was vast and empty - that turned into a dip in the sea and a laze around on a lounger till I dried. I enjoyed it so much that I stopped again once I was past Gulfport and did it all over again. It's the first real time I've spent in direct sun (as it is so hot), but there was a warm breeze rolling in off the sea - the Gulf of Mexico - which made it very pleasant.
I was going to bypass New Orleans, but had time to spare so decided I would drop in and look at the French Quarter, which is where the Mardi Gras celebrations culminate. On crossing the State boundary, the rain started. By the time I reached New Orleans there was thunder and lightening, and very heavy rain. However within minutes of me parking up near Bourbon Street the sun was out again.
Bourbon Street is reminiscent of Duval Street in Key West, the Big Market in Newcastle, and any other street you can name in which every other building is a bar. Given this was around 5 pm, it wasn't too busy, but many bars had live music. I sat in the Sing Sing watching a trio banging out a good version of the Stones' Sympathy for the Devil and talking to a blues guitarist and his wife who were in town for a blues convention. Drinking in the street appears to be OK so long as it's wrapped in a brown paper bag! There were quite an assortment of "characters" out and about, some of whose sexuality and sexual tendencies were in doubt. Extravagant people in an extravagant place. I can imagine Mardi Gras being a lot of fun, but the area isn't huge so it must get absolutely crowded. As always in America, the police had a very visible presence, and I watched them busting a street entertainer who was painted up like a clown. I'm sure he can't have been as happy as his face implied!!
Leaving town I wrong turned into a black neighbourhood, which I have to say was a little scary, but quite eye opening. There were families sitting on the front porch, or playing in the road. I saw some aggression taking place outside a run-down bar. The houses were mostly run down, and really quite attractive - sort of how I thought it might be down here. I'd have stopped to take some pictures if I'd felt safe stopping and unlocking the car…
Another king sized suite reserved for me at the Holiday Inn Baton Rouge. I really am spoilt, these are my free nights for the loyalty points! There was a Hooters within walking distance. I thought I should visit, as I haven't had my fill of American culture today, but by the time I got there it was closed…
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