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Hi again - after leaving Lucknow at about 1am we arrived at Nainital later in the morning. Sadly, we didn't survive the mosquito and cockroach bites which seemed to be infesting the train. Several Indians were complaining about the same, lucky I bought those antihistamines, Zirtek is Okacet in India, we discovered. Anyway, Nainital was beuatiful, and so much more peaceful than Delhi. Our hotel, although a little cold and damp, had friendly staff (Mr Shah), and the best tasting tea ever. Its mostly masala 'spicy' tea, which is very sweet and milky, and costs about 10p a cup (it tastes like starbuck's chai tea latte, which costs about 30 times as much). We had a rowing boat accross the lake and wandered round the town. We did a mini-trek to the top of the mountain (snow view) but with the haziness and clouds it was more fog view. Anyhow, on the way up we visited a mini-buddhist temple, which was guarded by a yapping dog, but we did manage to turn a few prayer wheels and feel a little 'enlightened'. The following day we hired a driver who took us around the other lakes, on the 'Lake District Tour' which was very good, lots of fresh air, and more spicy tea! We didn't do any horse riding, the horses look poorly fed and not that well cared for. The train journey from Nainital to Delhi was the best we had. We got talking to a friendly local, who looked after us in Delhi by getting us a taxi (at Indian prices) and putting us on the Taj Express, to our destination, Agra. Again, our pre-arranged transfer from the hotel didnt arrive, but we managed to pick up a driver, who we have since hired every day, and eaten at his home lastnight, then had tea at his landlady's house, where we were invited to their son's wedding in Agra next year. Photos to follow! The hotel was half-built and we opted not to have food in their dingy basement restaurant. However, The Taj Mahal was breathtaking, and well worth the wait. We spent a while there, just marvelling at its beauty; quite magical. As my cousin says, 'there are two types of people, those who have seen the Taj, and those who haven't!' - and we have to agree!!! The Red Fort was equally as impressive, and a day trip to Fatepuhr Sikri, was also very good. We were encouraged to undertake the ritual there where you buy (at great expense....) a few cotton ties and some cloth, which you then give to charity and tie the cotton in the mosque and you are granted three wishes. Good fun. Lets see if they come true! We met some Aussie's at a restaurant and had dinner with them. After dinner while we were waiting for our driver, a young boy dancer and a musician (some kind of Indian violin) started to entertain us. Unfortunately part of the dance seemed to include an impression of Roger Moore's Bond eyebrow which resulted in us laughing hysterically and paying him to stop! We waited hours at the train reservation centre in vain. The few people ahead of us (in the tourist queue, note) were making group bookings of 400 or so, we opted to pay the travel agent some commision, and so our bookings were done, which is a massive achievement, if you have ever tried to book a train in this country (we booked four!). If you can navigate your way around Trains At A Glance, you are entitled some credits towards a degree. Tonight we leave for Delhi (sob) and have a night in the YWCA, then fly to Cochin tomorrow, to begin the weeks cooking course in Kerala. More to follow, thanks for your emails and messages on the board, keep them coming... J&D xxx
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