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As we left Bangkok we got an email from fellow overlanders Tomas and Verena, who you may remember we met in UlanBataar and crossed into China with. How wonderful! They had found a lovely beach called Ban Krut, so we set off to meet them and enjoy the beach with our slightly lower Yoshimi.
We took off the roofbox and roofrack as they were damaged and so she's had a good 25cm shaved off the top. It's strange to see her looking so squat and almost like a normal car!
Ban Krut is only 20 km north of Ban Saphan, a more touristy place, but because we stopped to buy wine and beer and Fintan got the car washed we arrived after dark, just as Tomas and Verena had given up hope of us arriving. Ironically, after the hour it took to wash the car we drove off into a tropical rainstorm... o well!
It was a nice quiet spot to spend a day, we walked along the beach went up to the temple on the top of the hill, Reuben had a nap in a hammock (he and Tomas had polished off an entire bottle of whiskey between them the night before!) Fintan was hungover from the beer (both Singha and Chang are 5-6% alc and come in large glass bottles).
We then drove down to Ranong just to stop over before getting the slow boat to Koh Phayam. Doesn't it sound romantic? Well, after the experience, we can tell you it is not! Take the speed boat! We arrived at the dock at 9:30am, the listed boarding time, to see the supplies for the entire island being loaded, as well as a crowd of people waiting to take this boat. Even at 9:30am it was hot and humid and the stench around the harbour was terrible. I honestly thought Fintan was going to be sick.
When we climbed aboard, I was not filled with confidence and immediately set about looking around for extra life jackets and where the exits were. This boat is rated for 80 passengers. In addition to all the supplies and crew there was at least 120 people on the boat. As we moved away from the harbour the breeze did pick up and cooled us down a bit, but after 2 hours we were very ready to disembark!
At Koh Phayam, the pier has no steps to speak of, so we clamboured out onto the pier with the help of one of the crew, gathered our bags and headed to the 'taxi rank'. There are no cars on the island, only motorbikes and it cost us 70 baht each from one side of the island to Ao Yai, the beach on the other side. The guide book had said this was the best.
When we got to the beach Reuben planted himself at the closest bar and he, Tomas and Fintan said they were sure Verena and I would find somewhere wonderful to stay. First we went south along the beach to Bamboo Bungalows, but after being ignored for 10 minutes we went back to the guys and I told Fintan he could go with Verena, I was fed up! Arriving on the Saturday wasn't the best plan though - most places were booked out. After Fintan and Verena had walked nearly the entire stretch of beach the lady serving us drinks at the first bar said they have bungalows! Hoorah! And they were pretty much perfect... one small detail, there was only electricity from 6pm to midnight... So the wifi and aircon were in limited supply!
No matter to us though, we were finally by the ocean on a tropical island! Into the sea we go! Until we got into the water and started to get stung!! Tiny jellyfish larvae! No! So instead, Fintan and I walked to the Phayam dive shop to find out about trips to the Surin Islands. We quickly decided this sounded fantastic and we all booked to go on the next trip.
What a great day... an early start meeting at 6am at the Phayam lodge, we were checked off the list by a girl named Gwen who looked like a girl I knew in school called Gwen... and a 4 hour boat ride out to the islands, but it was such a beautiful day! Breakfast was provided on board, with real coffee (until the urn ran out). We sorted ourselves out with the gear and then in we went. Fintan, Verena, Tomas and I went snorkelling and Reuben went on a dive. Patrick, the snorkelling instructor for that day, recommended using life jackets so we could relax more and just enjoy the view... It also helped him keep track of us from the boat!
It was beautiful, the water was warm and clear and I saw lots of fish, some squid, 4 cuttlefish and a black tipped reef shark! Fintan didn't see as much because he trusted in his perfect vision, rather than wear his contact lenses! It was such a shame! But he put them in for the afternoon. The corals were not in a good condition, but that seems to be true of most dive/snorkel spots nowadays.
After a wonderful day in the water we headed back to Koh Phayam, snacking on pineapple and watermelon (salty from the sea spray) and spring rolls, drinking beers and chatting away. Reuben got chatting to Sam, one of the dive instructors, and we discovered that Gwen actually was the Gwen I knew in school - Jake Scoldings older sister! For one thing I couldn't believe that I had recognised her after all this time, and I couldn't believe she recognised me too! But then to have quite at random chosen this island, and this dive company... wow!
That evening back on the island, we had a drink with Jake's mum and dad, who were visiting, and got the gossip on a mongolian lady now living in Helston working at the hairdressers! Then we went for dinner at Forget Me Not, our 3rd night in a row... but seeing as Dew had managed to get some prawns after our special request, we thought we should go! What a feast... Reuben knows how to order Thai food...
Back to the mainland, this time by speed boat... and now continuing south, as much of our journey will be from now, until Australia!
- comments
mum joan enjoying your wonderful journey
mum I wish I were there! Hail and snow and rain here. The boat trip sounds good. Glad Yoshimi survived the trim. Any idea when you'll get to Australia?