On the southern end of the Hielo Sur ice field, on the Chilean side of the Patagonian Andes is another range of impressive mountains with sheer rock faces and spiky pinnacles. And for hikers, there is a distinct advantage over their Argentine counterparts - it is possible to do a complete circuit around them without needing to step onto a glacier. So, carrying my camping gear and eight days' worth of food, I have done just that. It's warm and sunny here in Puert...

I arrived in Argentina at one its two main tourist attractions, the Iguassu Falls; and I leave shortly (albeit temporarily) near to the other one. Apart from the thousands of people treading the boardwalks, and asking in different languages if someone could take their photo, the two places couldn't be more different. They both involve huge quantities of water I suppose, but one is representative of a sub-tropical climate, and the other a sub-polar climate. This s...

As I travelled south along the lonely Ruta-40, passing hundreds of miles of steppe, I began to wonder if I had now passed the point where there are more penguins south of me than people. Probably! This was one of the most desolate road journeys I've ever taken, the only entertainment being provided by sightings of small ostrich-like rheas and Patagonian hares darting away from the rare sound of a passing vehicle, and very occasional lakes where black-necked swans...

I have been exploring the Parque Nacional Los Alerces in the southern Lake District by local buses (which run only every few days) and on foot. I made good use of the free campsites, which are located in idyllic lakeside locations, and burnt quite a bit of firewood to cook and keep warm. It's a very beautiful area, taking its name from the alerces trees which rival North America's giants in size, and some of which are over 2500 years old. It's impossible to actua...

I am sitting in the sunshine with my back against a tree, overlooking a little beach on Lago (lake) Nahuel Huapi. There is blossom on the trees, and some large birds keep paying a visit to my campsite, such as ruddy-headed geese and buff-necked ibis. It's still cold at night, but spring is definitely in the air. I waved Helen off from the bus station two days ago, and came here to chill out for a bit after a hectic month of sightseeing; but what a great month it ...