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A few weeks ago, after a lovely and relaxing stay in Cork, I flew from Dublin to Brussels to commence my European backpacking adventure. There I made friends with several French Canadians at my hostel, one in particular named Colette. Together, Colette and I set about exploring (and getting lost, really, more than I'd like to admit) in the circular city, enjoying the thirty degree weather and indulging in trying everything Belgian - chocolate, waffles, and of course, beer. I had not planned to also try the 'frites' but it was actually inevitable and I didn't seem to have a choice in the matter - every sandwich in Brussels apparently comes well dressed with the greasy potatoes atop what you actually order! Yummy, but I learned my lesson quickly.
In Brussels, I visited the impressively sized and stunning National Basilica, the European Parliament, enjoyed an afternoon reading by the fountain at the Botanical Gardens and spent most of my days walking and snapping shots around the city centre. My favourite thing to visit in Brussels was of course the Grand Place - a popular tourist attraction (whose square I've heard hosts a brilliant Christmas market) where the antiquated tall buildings surrounding it look like Dutch dollhouses with ornamented rooftops and their windows illuminated in candlelight at night - a charming contrast to the busy restaurants and cafes below.
But after five days there, I was ready to see new things. I decided to take a highly recommended day-trip to Bruges (Brugge) on my way out of the country. 'Highly recommended' is actually a large understatement. And it did not disappoint.
Bruges is everything people say - quaint, lovely, romantic, small and charming....The core is isolated by a large canal and all throughout it, taking you through the cobble streets - past the chocolatiers, wooden shoe makers, cafes and ancient churches - are small bridges everywhere, navigating the countless canals running through Bruges; I think there are 45 bridges in total. The city is tiny and full of tourists, and well worth the visit. My favourite aspect of Bruges were the picturesque windmills boardering the larger canal that separates the city centre from the suburbs - their blue spokes turning slowly were truly a lovely sight. (Are those called spokes?)
When I left Bruges, I took the train to Angers, France, to stay with friends Kayla and Dylan (from Dartmouth) where they are living and studying for the year. I was met, again with beautiful hot weather, but this time with beautiful familiar faces. I love Angers. Its smallness does not inhibit its showcase of many beautifully manicured parks and gardens, centuries old churches and grand old architecture. The rainbows designed on the facade of its trams don't inhibit its demonstration of its progressive society, either. But most importantly, I was with Kayla and Dylan, so happy to see friends from home, and I loved sharing in their joy of inexpensive French wine, baguettes and gouda. So. Good. Add to that my love for all their happy and generous French friends, my sad but determined attempt to improve my French, and simply my joy at being in France and out of stark Belgium; I was a happy camper. Could not have been better.
From Angers I had even more to look forward to, training it north in early October to meet Maria in Paris. After not seeing this close-to-my-heart childhood friend in over a year, we were delighted to reunite over a glass of wine (or two?), a picnic at the Eiffel Tower, visiting Notre Dame, and shamelessly sitting and commenting on all the beautiful people living in that city - seriously...what is it about Paris? Everyone is gorgeous. Having gotten used to warm, sunny weather, we were sadly met with chilly and rainy days in the capital...but I was at least content to justify all the warmer clothing I had bought in Ireland and had taken with me to carry around Europe this fall! (I think it'll get cooler...eventually...)
Paris was great - we had lots of fun watching the Eiffel Tower light show and stumbling upon street performers and cool bboys busking on Champs Elysse. It was wonderful to spend those days with Maria! Coincidentally, we were there together over Thanksgiving - what luck! For my favourite holiday this year, Maria and I dined with another Canadian to celebrate, and I was thankful to once again be among friends.
Up until this point, I had had a few minimally stressful traveling moments, which are expected; however, I expected my journey to Madrid from Paris would be easy as pie - I already had my ticket in hand and I gave myself loads of time to take the metro to the train station that morning. This was wrong to expect. Long story short - a timely accident on the metro delayed my normally twenty-minute-long ride by an hour and a half and only by the help of two generous Parisians did I make it - navigating me through several metro line changes to make it around the disabled lines where the accident took place - to my platform with a minute and a half left to spare (my original plan was to be there over an hour before my departure time). After having raced through seven metro stations with my backpack on my back and having accepted defeat - I assumed I would miss my train - I was so relieved that my train was still there when I reached the platform that I naturally hopped on the train and opted to find my seat in disbelief. As my luck would have it, and as I would discover minutes later after the train had already left the station, my car didn't exist and therefore my seat did not, either. Speaking in broken French, my discovery was confirmed by a family in the last car - I had gotten on the wrong train.
I didn't know where I was headed at this point now, surged by disappointment once again that I had missed my train to Madrid. In the end, I was not the only one affected by the metro accident, and I was not the only one who accidently jumped on the wrong train with premature victory...But all would be okay - our trains were joined together and I would, with everyone else, switch trains at another stop. It was okay. I could finally exhale.
The train ride from Paris to Madrid - made even sweeter because I was actually on the right train - was beautiful. We went through San Sebastion and the Spanish countryside and I honestly felt spoiled to be witnessing the diverse scenery for so long. It was remarkable and I will never forget it.
Twelve hours later I miraculously arrived in Madrid, still in shock that I actualllly made it, greeted by (new) Madrilenos Simon, Dan and Asya, and fellow tourist Braden (all friends from home). It's really great to be here - Braden and I are staying with the boys and they have made me feel so at home. They've done a fantastic job at showing me around the city. Madrid doesn't have many touristy attractions, like I assumed, but it's been really nice getting to experience what it's actually like to live here. Walking through the markets, drinking sangria on a patio, eating churros and sipping coffee con leche in a cafe...All good things! I'm back in summer weather and loving it! I'm having so much fun here.
On Thursday, Simon, Asya and I flew from Madrid for a weekend in Tangier, Morocco. What an incredible experience! We stayed in an 1800s hotel decorated in traditional Moroccan style, tiled with intricate mosaic tilework and it sits on the coast overlooking Tangier beach.
This was one of my favourite holidays of life - apart from the mosquitos in our room at night and the almost constant harassment we endured by salesmen, we had a brilliant time. We spent a lot of our time wandering down the winding narrow streets of the casbah of Tangier, walking through the markets, and exploring along the beach. We were spoiled with excellent dinners - couscous, chicken, seafood, rice, kebab, cooked root vegetables...It was amazing. And people loved us - at least, I think they did. There was a regular at the cafe/bar located just across the street from our hotel who sat outside every night, and everytime we walked in or out he would yell to us "Peace, Canadians!" and offer us a peace sign, which, I'm obviously extremely happy to return. My favourite Moroccan, a shop owner at the market near us - Mr. Haggle - was hilarious. He had a unique way of bartering (his tactic was complimenting us, catering to the apparent look of a student we all shared with "You are student? You have no money? Come to my shop. Haggle. Haggle with me!" and whispering in our ears to make us take him seriously). It worked! We all came away with treasurers from Mr. Haggle (who, we went back to see again!).
Day two, we hired a taxi to take us to the Caves of Hercules (it is said this is where Hercules put his fist in the ground and separated what is now Africa from Europe. Big stuff. On the way, our lovely taxidriver Mohammed gave us an unexpected tour of Tangier, showing us the palaces of the king of Morocco, etc, and took us to a nice restaurant overlooking the Atlantic ocean. There we met a baby donkey and his mother :) So cute. From there, Mohammed took us down the coast toward the caves, but of course he had to stop to convince us to get camel rides! Without hesitation, Simon and I joined in the fun and enjoyed a ride on a camel named Nadia on a beach in Morocco. Fantastic. We continued on our journey and finally visited the Caves of Hercules - pretty cool place! All in all, we had one packed and eventful weekend.
We're back in Madrid now - taking it easy before I set out again tomorrow. I'm meeting Lauren in Alicante (Spain) for a few days before setting out to Barcelona and Nice. Can't believe it's the third week of October already.
Thanks to those of you who left notes after reading my first blog - hope it's entertaining still!
Happy belated Thanksgiving to my Canadian friends!
Love,
Sarah
- comments
Patti Tabor Sounds absolutely amazing, Sarah! You have a gift for descriptive writing, too! (Amongst many others)
Pat It all sounds awesome, Sarah! But why did you leave out the story about your new necklace? Have fun in Spain with the shortest Connors. Can't wait to be over there with you!
Bernie Hart Its great to learn of your adventures - its almost like being there but much cheaper. May the rest of your journeys be as interesting and enjoyable as those you have already experienced. I hope you are taking lots of photos.
Phalex Dougie, you're getting me so excited about my own European adventure and have successfully convinced me to visit Belgium! Love you and miss you and I wish I was seeing you when I visit toronto next week!!!!xoxox