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Day 56 - Monday 28/5
Got to the Whalewatch offices in plenty of time. Weather perfect, trip confirmed. Boarded boat a sort time later and started out to sea.
The captain made use of a hydrophone (underwater mic) to see if any whales were nearby. They were and within half an hour we had seen or first sperm whale on the surface. They dive for 40-60 minutes on a single breath (to depths of 2km) and then surface to breathe for 5-10 mins. They stop sounding as they come up for air. Amazing to see. Promptly saw another one which dived almost as soon as we reached it, then saw 3 more, which was very lucky indeed.
As we headed back to land we were joined by a pod of thirty or so dusky dolphins who proceeded to show off for us, doing somersaults and swimming under and around the boat at incredible speeds. We also got to see wandering albatross. They are huge (3 metre wingspan)
Once we had calmed down after that experience we got in the van and headed north for Abel Tasman.
Day 57 - Tues 29/5
Did a half day walk to Anchorage, part way along the Abel Tasman track, which is a pretty easy walking route, 51 km long, but with lots of stopping points and camping huts along the way if you want to do longer sections (or all of it).
The path wends it's way along the coast overlooking the Tasman Sea, which is impossibly blue. Lots of tree ferns and tea tree along the way. Bays and islands truly beautiful -like walking through a postcard. Finished walk and got the water taxi back.
Day 58 - Weds 30/5
Got up to hard frost and headed to the kayaking centre in the village. After getting kitted out in wetsuits and a tutorial/safety briefing we set off onto the water with the guide and one other person.
Sea was lovely and calm - a great introduction for us novices. Wildlife is completely unfazed when you approach on the water and we got up close to all sorts. Mostly birdlife, but we also had two seal pups come and join us for a few minutes which was great fun. They were very inquisitive.
We stopped for lunch on a secluded beach then got picked up by water taxi and taken a little further up the coast for part two, another section of the Abel Tasman trail, this time from Torrent Bay to Bark Bay. Another easy walk with yet more amazing views. Got another water taxi back to base. Both pleasantly surprised at how much we enjoyed kayaking. Something tells me well be doing some more....
Day 59 - Thurs 31/5
Off to the Marlborough Sounds today. Drove from Abel Tasman to Picton. Amazed at the size of the timber shopping yard on the outskirts of town. Choose a campsite outside if the main town which had a bizarre alpine feel and looked like it had been teleported in from the 50s.
Day 60 - Friday 1/6
Off in to town to meet up with guide for kayaking trip no 2. One other couple going too. Headed to Ngakuti Bay where the kayaks were waiting.
Got started pretty quickly and headed out into Queen Charlotte Sound.
Oh my god. So beautiful. The water was like glass in places and the scenery amazing. Saw a lot of grey spotted shags and quite a few seals. Also watched gannets diving into the water from a distance.
After stopping for a picnic lunch on the beach, we carried on around the inlets, with the guide giving a really interesting natural history lesson. Lots of multi million dollar real estate to admire on the shore.
Whilst the guide was taking some snaps of the couple in the other kayak, Andy and I were treated to a gannet diving into the water about 20 feet away. Like a feathered bullet and hardly any disturbance to the surface.
In total we probably covered about 14 km during the day - a truly wonderful trip.
Day 61 - Sat 2/6
Got up early for the ferry crossing which had to be one of, if not the most spectacular ferry journeys - you spend the first hour cruising through the sounds out to the Cook Strait. As we got close to land at Wellington it became clear that it was going to live up to its reputation of being a windy city!
Arrived in port and went straight to the motor park, which is very central. Walked in to town and spent a few hours going around Te Papa - the Museum of New Zealand. Massive place and really interesting. Could easily have spent a couple of days going round it all.
On or walk back towards the van (via wagamama, for dinner) we suddenly heard some berry noisy bird calls, only to find three (nz blue) penguins in the water next to us. Cool.
Day 62 - Sunday 3/6
1st stop Zealandia. An amazing conservation project just outside Wellington. Basically they have put a pest-proof fence around 225 hectares of decommissioned reservoir and surrounding forest/bush. Thirteen years later, after eradicating resident non-native animals etc they are seeing great successes in their efforts to reestablish the area to its original state. Spent a fascinating three hours wandering around. The place depends on its team of 450 volunteers to keep going, but is already being used as a blueprint for similar projects around the world.
In the afternoon we got back in the van and headed north to Napier on the east coast, for no reason other than it got us a goodly easy towards where we wanted to go next.
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