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Our day in the Medina in Fes with our guide Charif was a breeze. The day was around 28c but inside the Medina was mostly shaded and the air felt like low 20s.
Equally surprising was that it did not seem overly crowded most of the time, and when we did hit a tour group, it was just a matter of taking the next left or right and the slow pace resumed.
Down through the narrow souks, past the decapitated camel head, complete with fur, tongue and eyes, hanging outside of the camel meat butcher shop, next, the beef butchery with hind quarters hanging from the hooks, some with various original attachments still in place to signify that this was a bull, not a cow.
And of course the endless fruit and vegetable stalls, with everything from oranges to olives, all arranged in coloured symmetric patterns.
A spell in a textile weaving shop/factory where they were using silk from the Agave plant was fascinating, although it did take some effort on Jeans part to get us out without buying a scarf or two.
We managed the same result at the pottery co-op although seeing them making the mosaic designs was fascinating.
The leather makers were not so easy, but we always intended to buy something there so we proceeded with purpose.
After avoiding the leopard, tiger, zebra and every other animal skin all of which was actually hand painted on cow hide, we made it to a leather shop where Jean was once again at her best. First getting the price that was quoted in $US reduced by 30%, then that knocked down another 30% and then the same final figure in $US then offered to her in $Aus, in effect another 30% off. All up, a little over half the original quote. Well done that girl.
Then lunch which again was a struggle. The menu only came with 5 courses, with various size portions according to price one was prepared to pay.
We only wanted a bottle of sprite and bread and the ritual struggle to convince the waiter to limit the meal to this failed. So we conceded to bread, olives, spicy carrots for starters and half a chicken and lemon Tagine., leaving most of it uneaten.
So it was back to the hotel for a rest and we will see what tomorrow brings.
The overheard exchange of the day:
Guide: As-salaam alykum ( peace be with you)
Tourist, without a backward glance: Same to you buddy.
Day 2 in Fes and a relaxing half day drive to Meknes and on to Volubilis, the latter being the site of a significant Roman ruin. A minor mix up with the local guide and our driver, resulted in us joining another English speaking group which resented yet another dimension on group tour travel.
On a rocky outcrop among Roman ruins, miles from anywhere, amid a scattering of eucalyptus trees, the local Arabic guide tells us that his favourite music is Aust country and western, esp Leigh Kernaghan’s Spirit of the Anzac album.
It’s these little things in life that surprise.
Today’s takeaway:
With the guide explaining the military importance of the Roman site at Volubilis, he was asked: “who were the Roman’s enemies?”
Answer: Anyone who wasn’t Roman.
Fun fact. Where the Romans found the Acanthus plant growing it meant the soil was fertile and a good place for a town.
The Acanthus symbolises rebirth and immortality and is the leaf incorporated in the capital of a Corinthian column.
So with all this additional knowledge on board, we headed back to Fes for a quick relax by the hotel pool before a good piece of steak, hopefully “sans appendice”.
Tomorrow we head for Chefchaouen known as the Blue city in the Rif Mountains.
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