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This entry comes after a couple of weeks of walking our socks off in Argentinian Patagonia. Superlatives are becoming rather useless as the landscape gets increasingly stunning and regularly render us (one of us who grew up with the magnificence of Cheddar Gorge on his doorstep) speechless.
We arrived in Baroliche via a surreal border crossing where all the mountains are covered by ash and rock from Chile's 2010 massive volcanic eruption. After the somewhat hit and miss food in Chile we were looking forward to Argentina's 'chocolate capital' and it did not disappoint, as well as taking down a 500g steak (yes that is over a pack of mince) on our last night. Bariloche is surrounded by ski resorts and with swiss chalets galore we felt a bit nostalgic for the alps, but took to the mountains trekking instead, regularly entertained by more insane rock climbers as we went.
From there we went to the hippie town of El Bolson a couple of hours south. We were pleased to leave behind the world's 'cosiest' bunks where Rhian's head was a full foot above mine and we embraced the culture which seemed to mostly involve relaxation (hammock time), and free yoga in the evenings. After our first class the teacher took us to one side - 'don't worry those hamstrings will stretch right out in a couple of weeks'. I have never felt quite so old as my lack of flexibility and arthritic joints rendered me the worst student in the class. Still El Bolson produces 70% of Argentina's hops so plenty of local cervezas to drown my sorrows.
To continue south we boarded a 25 hour (!) bus down the 'historic' Ruta 40 (not that we had really heard of it before we set off). Whilst a sort of travelling right of passage the scenery is pretty much the same for the whole 1500kms. The main/only highlight was Rhian laughing at my feet as they swelled to many times their normal size (sadly we forgot to take a pic).
This journey took us to El Chalten - Argentina's 'National capital of trekking' and what appears to be the home of innumerable British and Japanese tourists. Clearly fans of hiking as this is all there is to do but what incredible hiking it was in glacier capped peaks all around.
From there we arrived here in El Calafate - home to the Perito Moreno glacier - one of the most incredible sights we have seen. In true Patagonian style the day started in pouring rain and freezing conditions before the sun came out to thaw us out and provide the views we had been waiting for. We also made a visit to the ice bar in town, an incredible setting which joy of joys served unlimited Gin & Tonic (for the 20 minute period you are allowed in). The answer for those wondering is she can put away 5 in that time....
From here it is onwards and southwards, to our 'W' trek - 5 days (4 night camping) in Torres del Paine National Park - conveniently arranged (weather permitting) to finish just in time for 6 nations super saturday :)
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