Through luck rather than judgment we arrived in Hoi An on full moon. This means the old town is shut off to vehicles (including pesky motorbike drivers offering you a lift). It was lit upby lanterns and really nice and quite, a world away from Hanoi. The food went down well as normal and the local beer isn't so bad either.
The next day we rented a motorbike and zipped off to the beach to sizzle, followed by a ride up the coast where the views are unfortunately blocked off by big resorts. It's the stretch of coastline that the American's arrived to and is called China Beach.
The whole town is full of (and known for) tailors which will make you just about anything for a fraction of what is costs back home. We, (well, Hannah) eventually gave in to the pressure and had a pair of worn out shorts copied, a dress, a coat and a couple pairs of custom made boots for winter. Bargain.
More delicious Vietnamese food, then a night bus (unfortunately not of the sleeping variety) to the diving spot further down the coastline.