We managed to avoid a scam! Lots of very persistent men at the station tried to convince us we could have a free taxi to avoid the 'dark' side of Delhi. After saying no about a million times we walked off and found our own way to our accommodation, which happened to be about a five minute walk contrary to the advice of the 'official' railway staff ( I think inverted commas might be user a lot on this blog!). After dropping off our bags we took a rickshaw to what we though5 was laxmi temple, but they 'conveniently' dropped us at the 'official' tourist information centre, where we were offered a car tour for 2 quid - seemed like a good price and turned out to be a good move. We visited the Sikh temple, India gate, and some grand president buildings. On the way home we picked up some street food - touch wood no Delhi belly! Some samosas, puffy bread balls, gravy type stuff, and a pomegranate for 70p! We strung up our mozzy net and hit the sack. This morning started early with a walking tour of old Delhi, courtesy of ms Anju our lovely guide. The tour includes seeing racing pigeons being flown from the roof tops by responding to whistles from their owner - really bizzare and amazing to watch. The sky is also full, I mean FULL of eagles! They just fly overhead everywhere! We tried chai and lassi, had an Indian breakfast, visited the wedding and sari bazaar, saw the extravagant wedding invitations, had a henna, visited a bangles shop, and had lunch in a restored haveli, a traditional indian mansion. After being fed endless puri (puffed flatbreads), we took a rickshaw to the red fort and hired an audio guide. It was here that our a-list status began. One woman asked for a photo, and the next thing you know we have a crowd queueing to have themselvrs , kids, and friends photographed with us - such a bizzare event! And it happened all the way round the fort - everywhere you go people just stare, but flash them a smile and they beam back. We have seen only a handful of Europeans. Following the fort, we were escorted by our new found friends to the largest mosque in India. All the Indians just walked straight in but we were asked for 300 rupees each so we thought sod it, who needs Allah, and left. Tomorrow we catch the 7.20am train to Amritsar, leaving behind the sites and smells of delhi for pomp and circumstance.