21 July 2008
Pangani - Dar Es Salaam (Sunrise Beach)
SARAH: We sadly left beautiful Peponi beach and drove south to Dar. Driving was slow going as we entered 50km/hr and 30km/hr zones. After our police encounter the other day we didn't want to get fined for speeding and the police in their white uniforms are hiding everywhere! We were doing well until we hit the outskirts of Dar where we saw a lady in white signal for us to pull over. We'd been doing 67km/hr in a 50 km/hr zone but we had not seen a warning sign. Knowing that we were in the wrong we just apologised and said that we were happy to pay the 20,000Tsh fine, and asked them to write up the ticket. Another policeman then said "of course if you don't need a receipt your fine could be 10,000 or even 5,000Tsh." Bruce insisted that we have a receipt, saying that we were happy to pay 20,000Tsh for it as we collected them and adding what a wonderful country Tanzania is. After a while they realised that they were not going to get any cash in hand from us and said that since we are their friends they would let us go without paying anything. How's that for corruption!
We stopped at Shoprite in Dar for a quick shop and then had to get a ferry across the harbour to the beaches just south of Dar. As a city Dar es Salaam seems pretty cool and quite relaxed. The ferry looked ancient and was totally overloaded but after 5mins we were safely across. Once on the other side we felt worlds, not km's, from Dar. The beaches were deserted and underdeveloped and just stunning. Sunrise beach is a gem of a spot with a beaut white beach, turquoise water, little beach shacks and a cool bar. It's dirt cheep to stay here at $4ppfor camping and they have tented bandas for $15per couple! It's a steal and would make an awesome holiday destination. The evening had cleared up and we had chicken and boerie on the braai with G&T's!
23 July 2008
Dar Es Salaam (Sunrise Beach)
BRUCE: It was a rainy start to the day today which was not great being on the beach. We read our books and did some blog work and when it cleared went for a walk on the stunning beach collecting shells.
24 July 2008
Dar Es Salaam (Sunrise Beach)
SARAH: This beach is just stunning and today was a gloriously hot day. I had one of my best, and most relaxing, days on the beach and finally got a slight tan. The sea is a wonderful turquoise blue colour and is so warm. We did some body surfing in fair sized waves and played frizzby whilst walking along the beach. I wish we could spend longer here but it still would not be long enough.
We are camped right on the beach among the palm trees and a German couple, that we had met in Jungle Junction, are camped next to us. After lots of talking we've decided not to go to Zanzibar as it's not in our budget but this beautiful beach makes up for missing Zanzibar. We cooked the last of our Kenyan Boerie on the braai and had drinks with our neighbours.
25 July 2008
Dar Es Salaam (Sunrise Beach)
80 Km (all around Dar!)
BRUCE: We needed to get our gas bottle filled today - before we head into Malawi- so we had to pack everything up and head back over the ferry into town. The rude man at the gas refill place said that they could only fill our gas bottle in 3 days which after fighting traffic in sweltering heat really made my day! Fortunately Kevin, that we had met in Uganda, had given the number of the gas company's operations manager who was from SA so we gave him a call and he told us to go to the depot and they would sort it out, no problem! Only problem was finding the depot which took the rest of the day but we made the most of the detours by buying a Southern African guide book and doing some supplies shopping - Gin and Beer! Eventually we found the depot down near the docks and the guys were a bit bemused by this Mzungu who wants 2.75kg's of gas when they sell it by the ton! Anyway, after a lot of running around they agreed to fill our cylinder and we were on our way with a receipt made out to a Patel Trading in central Dar.The plan had been to move to a camp north of Dar but we were so close to Sunrise Beach we decided to come back! We rewarded ourselves with min-ichoc icecreams for the ferry ride and had a great swim back at the camp. Nicole and Uwa (the German couple) had bought a Mzungu Snapper that they were taking up the beach to friends at another camp and we sadly declined their invite to join them as we were so tired from our days running around. We met a German overlander who joined us for dinner and we crashed early after a seafood pizza and Captain Morgan on the beach.
26 July 2008
Dar Es Salaam - Iringa (Riverside Camp)
SARAH: We were on the road by 6:30am and managed to beat the traffic getting out of Dar. It was a long drive to Iringa but we were keen to get into Malawi for some more beaches as soon as possible. Being a Saturday there wasn't much traffic and we escaped the crooked cops! Riverside Campsite is ok but we've been spoilt with such amazing campsites lately we are probably just getting fussy. We had the late afternoon to catch up on dairy writing and stuff and were then joined by a Swiss couple who travel Africa every holiday and leave their cruiser with people in African countries. They were great and treated us to some chocolate pudding after our braai. Yummy! We are still undecided about our route and it's a toss up between Mozambique and Botswana. Neither of us know if we want more beaches or bush but we really only need to decide in Malawi or Zambia at the latest. It's freezing cold here in the highlands, actually it's only 12 degrees, but we've acclimatised to warmer weather now so 12 degrees is freezing and we slept with 2 extra blankets on.
27 July 2008
Iringa - Chitimba, Malawi (Chitimba Beach Campsite)
BRUCE: We were up early again so that we could make it through to Malawi, which was not our original plan but there is nothing to see in this part of Tanzania so we thought we would give it a go. We made good time and got to the border at about 2:30pm. It was a really easy border and we were through both sides in 30mins without a cent to pay! We got to Chitimba at 5:30 or 4:30pm Malawi time, and set up camp. The place is quite nice and one of the overland trucks we saw yesterday is here and also 2 SA registered Toyotas with campers. One was Vannie from WP, judging from his personalised number plate, and we decided not to say hi and kept to ourselves! We were both shattered after 2 full days driving and are going to crash early.
SUMMARY OF TANZANIA
Exchange rate: 2,300Tsh:
Beer: 2000Tsh in bars, 1500Tsh at Shoprite
Border crossing: 90mins in: 15mins out
HIGHLIGHTS OF TANZANIA
- Peponi Beach and food
- Sunrise Beach
- Meeting Taco and Brenda
- Mzungu Snapper
LOWLIGHTS OF TANZANIA
- Crooked cops
- Expensive diesel