Day 3 - The best start to a day walking in the Himalayas today... A trip to a very Nepalese run German bakery for a carb, sugar and fat stores top up consisting of apple pie, chocolate croissant, cinnamon roll and sugar porridge! After hearing a repeat of cyclone Hudhud was meant to be on its way, we made an even earlier start today to try and gain a bit more ground. Sleep pattern has flipped now: early to bed (out of pure exhaustion) and early to rise to see the sun wake up. Usually the most peaceful time of the day until a bunch of Chinese or Koreans wake up and join our quiet time. Not resentful in the slightest! Chlorine tablet update - Both of us more used to them, although still taste god awful.
After yesterday's brutal valley mission we started off with another smaller valley mission. We didn't feel downhearted though because base camp was just 3 days away and the view was getting better by the day!
Now walking with 3 Indian friendly Indian guys and Rik, a self confessed 'amazing climber' who happens to drop this into every sentence. Also met 2 German friends we met in Kathmandu who were heading down today which made for an easy excuse for a 10 minute break.
Feeling on the ball today. We were meant to stay the night at Bamboo but after arriving there at midday we made some height and pushed on up to Himalaya, turning the day into a 7 hourer. The 150 ruppee hot shower was 100% necessary although hair definitely stayed dry this time.
Himalaya was in a really cold valley that didn't see the sun for most of the afternoon so every single layer possible was being worn both day and night. That first 20 minutes when you got underneath the duvet was so cold! Eventually the damp chill of the mattress and duvet was eased by your body heat. Hats and buffs remain insitu for majority of the night until that hot panic wakes you and you have to strip them off.
530nrps Dahl baht.
Chhomrong 2210m to Himalaya 2920m
Day 4 - shorter walk today meant a nice lazy 8.15 start from Himalaya. Dressed in almost all our thick clothes we started off for Machhapuchre Base Camp (MBC). The cold valley walk up there took us 3 and a half hours and after 1 and a half hours we were relieved to feel the sun just peaking over the ridge to our right and we could finally strip off a few layers.
Seeing the first few people coming down with altitude sickness, and looking like they were hungover was a bit scary!
By now we too had started to feel the effects of the altitude...lots of sneaky wee breaks, headaches, lethargy, tachycardia and fast breathing. Every few hundred metres we had a pulse check and usually a little break to slow it down a bit which was always nice to admire our valley. Nice to not be in a rush with only a short walk, so we could get guilt free breaks!
Arriving in MBC felt like a big achievement! 3700m and colder weather again. The cold afternoon was spent wrapped up trying to keep warm, drinking amazing hot chocolates and avoiding a pack of noisy Russians! Why do they have to talk so loudly!
Still been walking with Rick on and off today and we think the Indians are possibly up at MBC as well but not sure where. The tea houses are scattered around so we couldn't find them despite a wander in search of 'three Indian guys'.
Early night again to avoid the cold and in preparation for a bleary eyed 5am start to see sunrise!
Himalaya 2920m to Machapurrhe Base Camp 3700m
Love Jo x