We were booked into the Ibis, Murray Street, Perth for our first 3 nights with a trip to the Pinnacles Dessert on day 2. Great hotel, recommended in the Lonely Planet, minimilist and v central. Well done liz for organising. We would spend a day orientating ourselves and then be off to Murray River, Rottnest and Kalgoorlie. That evening we took a trip by train to Freemantle, Perth's hippy partner across the river for supper. A very kind policeman gave us a free pass because we had no change for the machines, the first kind act we were to experience in a city were people are so friendly.

However, the best laid plans... the germs were waiting for us as we got off the plane. We set off for our Pinnacles trip next day and Neil hd to be sent back by taxi after the first stop having had a terrible night talking on the big white telephone. Honest guv - no alcohol was involved. He insisted that I continued on and it was a really interesting trip, I got to caress koalas, feed kangaroos and ride the sand dunes in the most enormous 4 wheel drive vehicle you have ever seen. The sky here is enormous with white sand blown into dunes the height of a house and the sea a real turquoise blue all around. The finale was a guided walk in the dessert - an unbelievable experience in a primaeval and wild landscape.

It was explained that the columns had been created by trees whose roots were wrapped around the limestone beneath creating a crust. in time all the earth had been eroded away and the trees burnt down and all that is left is the rock from the root balls which are now above round because the land level is about 10 feet lower. Here endeth the science bit. NB our guide was a botanist - very knowledgeable and cute with it!!

Realising that Neil was not fit to drive we cancelled the hirecar for the next day and booked a trip to Kalgoorlie the day after. Not to be - the following night I succumbed and the Kalgoorlie trip had to be cancelled! the drama unfurls...