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Before coming to Argentina I was enthusiastic about visiting Cordoba but a few reviews i had read just before coming here, didn't describe it in a positive light. Still, it was on my way up to the north of Argentina and would at least be a place to spend some time catching up on errands and planning my journey further north.
I was staying very much in the commercial centre where the streets get blocked off during the day to accommodate all the hustle and bustle. Although it did not seem that appealing at first, the atmosphere felt like I was back in South America for the first time in a long time as most of southern Argentina made you feel like you were in Europe. Wandering around getting a feel for the city, I visited one museum which was set up in memory of the victims of the so called 'dirty war' in Argentina in the 70s. It had a very somber feel to it, depicting this saddening and brutal period in Argentina's history, as many people were kidnapped and killed for as little as expressing reservations against the military dictatorship of the time. Ironically the only thing that got rid of the dictatorship was the Falklands war but of course, that's another story!
Nueva Cordoba (the newer district downtown) was much calmer and had a little bit more cool to it with a few trendy boutiques, cafes and bars to probably cater for the large student population. Cordoba is very much a university city and you definitely see that walking around. It also is supposed to have a very lively nightlife scene and if you were a student, I imagine it would be a good place to study. However during my stay, i didn't make a huge effort to explore its nightlife credentials.
By this time in the trip, I was starting to get a little tired of regular Argentinian fare (yes a man can have too much steak) and spent some time trying to find some alternatives. My patience was eventually rewarded when I explored the local markets on the other side of town and found a small place selling middle eastern food....perfect! I felt at home straight away and grinned when the menu listed items that I had not eaten in what seemed liked an eternity. Falafel, tabouleh, dolmades and even galaktobouriko! Sometimes it's the little things that can make your day when travelling around and therefore lunch was sorted for the next couple of days.
While in Cordoba, I visited the nearby town of Alta Gracia. A small town famed for having amongst other things, the house where Ernesto 'Che' Guevara lived for a while when he was young. It was now turned into a museum and the house chronicled his family life growing up, his travels through Argentina and eventually his encounter with Fidel Castro in Mexico before becoming the icon he was to become. It was interesting to see pictures of him growing up and also a replica of the famous motorcycle he toured Argentina with depicted in the movie 'The Motorcycle Diaries.'
Cordoba is ok if you need to pass through for a couple of days on your way to somewhere else and get some things done. You can find things to do to fill up your days and there are also lots of outdoor activities on offer which unfortunately I wasn't able to do. However, I think I would have to agree with some of the less positive reviews of Cordoba as in the grand scheme of things, it's probably somewhere you shouldn't be too disappointed about if you don't get to visit.
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