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Day 94- 109 18th March to 3rd April
It was exciting times ahead to know that Karla and Kate were coming to meet me in Bali. This would be a holiday for me since Vietnam rather than 'travelling'. Although there was a mess up with Karlas airport transfer and she had to wait for me for 2 hours it was lovely to see her waiting for me as a surprise at arrivals. This is the only time it has happened with all the airports I've been through. We went out for a meal in Sanur (locally referred to as Snore)
The next day while we waited for Kate who was on her way we went to enjoy the beach in Sanur. I know I keep saying it is getting hotter and hotter but it really has hit a new maximum now. I stayed in the shade and slept most of the day (I think Borneo was still catching up with me) and kept having dreams about someone pointing a hair dryer in my face, then waking up to discover that it was just the breeze. Even the sea was warmer than I have most baths. Karla and I had a lovely meal at 'Charming' where our bags got their own chair and we were delighted to be welcomed with an icy cold face flannel. Kate arrived about 11.30pm and with a few beers around the pool we were ready to explore Bali tomorrow.
Our first stop was Ubud, the 'cultural' capital where we stayed in the lovely Samas Cottages, down a little side road away from the hustle and bustle of the Main Street. Here we lived like kings ordering our abundant breakfast and it would be bought to our patio at the time we liked. There were a large number of restaurants to choose from and my first night I enjoyed some Nasi Goring (fried rice).
The next day we went out to explore the town and walked out passed the Padi Fields to Monkey Forrest. Before this we had to take refuge in the local shops to buy necessary fans and then a cafe to cool off. It was ridiculously hot and humid. Monkey Forrest was exactly what it said with 100s of Macque monkey running and swinging around. Though I had seen lots from afar in Borneo, here they were right at your feet and saw lots of tiny new borns hanging onto their mummy's. We got to watch them swing into a little pool and swim around before jumping out. We also found a cheeky chappy who had found a tap and hose and enjoyed turning it on, spraying himself and then turning it off again. Apparently he had been doing it all morning and wasn't showing any signs of getting board.
In the afternoon we went on our cooking course where we were all referred to as 'honeys' and made a delicious feast of yellow curry, soups, salads, tempura, satay, kebabs and gaddo gaddo served with locally grown white and red sticky rice. Yum! Pudding was banana in coconut cream, this is where I reached bursting point. It had all been so tasty.
The next day we burnt off our calories consumed with a bike ride. Well sort of, it was 97% down hill and you didn't even need to peddle (my kind of bike ride). Also it was just the 3 of us so it was really a private tour. Before we started we were taken to a coffee plantation where we all skipped the 'Poo' coffee re-digested beans from a civet cat but instead enjoyed 10 other coffees and flavoured teas after having a go at roasting some beans. Then it was a beautiful breakfast spot over looking the big volcano, Mount Agung, where you could see where the last lava spill had turned the earth black, up to the village below. It was then off on the bikes. Not long into the ride we stopped at a local home where we learnt about family tradition (families from the sons all live together, the daughters when they marry move out) and it's quite common for family units to have up to 20 people living in the same place, with individual houses around a communal area. My legs went funny when we were told that when children reach the age of 12 they have their teeth filed straight to keep away the devil (by the local clergy, not a dentist). We also saw the families rice stocks drying in the driveway. After that it was pretty view points of Padi fields and coconut trees. We stopped in another town at the village hall and learned that each town has an elder in charge to keep everyone informed of what they needed to know from local government. Our reward after was a delicious lunch, similar to our feast from our cookery course last night. 10 out of 10 for Happy Bike Tours.
The next day we had a driver take us around the island to places we had picked from the lonely planet. It was our nice driver who had brought us to Ubud (think he might be the only one). We had a great day visiting the Gitgit Waterfalls where we had a paddle in the cool waters and our driver pointed out fruit and plants of interest and enjoyed a photo bomb or 2. Next we went onto the Danau Waduk, a temple on a lake. When we saw people holding up the 50,000 note (£2.50) for a photo op we realised it was on the bank note so we hopped on the band wagon. You could hear the call to pray and chanting from the inside. It was a very calming place and a spectacular view across the giant lake. Driving through the villages we learned the meaning of all the bamboo decorations in the streets. We got to the famous Padi rice field view of Jatiluwih just as the heavens opened (now I know why it is so green) and took refuge for lunch where there was a normal power cut. The ride back was more interesting as the rivers were running down the street and I'm pretty sure some of the road was missing. The road was blocked in a small village where a ceremony was happening and girls and boys were out in local dress. We took pictures and it was nice to get a smile and wave in return. For dinner we went to Cafe de Artiste where the food was excellent, but the highlight to the evening was dropping what looked like a paracetamol into a tiny bit of water and watching it turn into a face wipe. Magic!!!
The next day we explored Ubud, having been there a few days and not seeing the main sights. Visited a temple on the outskirts of town and then on route to the market, there were fire engines, police re directing traffic and I learnt that 2 floors of the market had just burned down from an electrical fire. Think I will give it a wide birth. In the afternoon I had a 1.5 hour Balinese Massage. Bliss! And a bargain for about £11 :) definitely felt a bit sleepy for our last night in Ubud.
Already a week had gone by in Bali and we were leaving to get to Gili Air, a 1km square island about 1.5 hours from the mainland. After getting 2 bargain sarongs while waiting in the queue and getting followed to the boat, we were on our way sitting on the top deck careful to be covered up as it was scorching.
Arriving on Gili Air, there are no cars, just bikes and horse and carts. I was pretty upset to see the state of the horses so we walked knowing it was not far. It wasn't a long walk but thanks Gili Bungalows for not putting up any signs so we went the long way round, dragging bags in the mid day sun :(. However when we arrived we had another lovely villa and a nice pool (though the black marble meant it was really a hot bath). We went to out to explore the island and I went to my first (and last) yoga lesson. Had all the blood not rushed to my head to make me dizzy with every downward dog I might of enjoyed it :(
The next day I was signed up for a dive, my first since passing in Cambodia so I was a little nervous. However Mantra divers were excellent and I had a great morning. Saw 100s of fish and saw my first turtles swimming along. I'm glad I've got over my fear. My next, I think will be in the Great Barrier Reef.
The next few days were spent lying around the pool mostly because I had a rubbish flu type thing, so was glad I wasn't on my own. We then left Gili Air for the island of Nusa Lembongan where we stayed at the great resort of Tiger Lilies with a great Healthy menu and something a bit different in Indonesia.
Here we explored the beaches, went on a snorkel tour around Nusa Penida where we unfortunately we didn't see any manta rays but we did see plenty of fish and we got to ride on our first scooter to get to the boat (think I mainly just had my eyes shut). We had a tour around the island in a giant golf buggy with Mr Helley to the Mangroves, where we had a little boat ride, then we went on to the bridge connecting the islands (scooters only), Devils Tears where the ocean gets sucked in and then blown out of the rock face, Dream Beach -it really was as there was not the typical sharpe coral that was at every other beach and lastly Panoramic Point for a nice view across the island.
It was then back to Sanur for our last full day at Klumpoo villas, definitely the best one yet, I think the room was bigger than my entire flat. Had a nice laze around the pool until it was time for tea and cake. Then it was back to 'Charming' restaurant so that Kate could have a chair for her Mullberry purse and we were sung to by a great live band.
The 2 weeks had flown by, we had packed a lot in and travelled by taxi, car, scooter, buggy and boat. I was sad to be leaving Kate and Karla and leaving the lifestyle I had been a custom to for the last 3.5 months. I am looking forward to Australia but I know it is going to be a massive culture shock (and they speak funny and wear cork hats).
(See Facebook for the Bali photos.....)
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