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Its time to say goodbye to both my wonderful travelling companion and the beautiful South America. I head back to Lima for a few days before flying home to NZ.
As I go through immigration into Peru the old man asks Emma where she came from? "Rio" she replies, and he stamps her passport and moves her on. I'm next. He's going ask me a million questions when he sees I've already been here for the maximum 6 months. He's an experienced immigration official, he'll be onto me within seconds. I'm ready for the interrogation and I have all the answers.
"Buenos dias" he says. I smile widely, trying to look calm and innocent, and respond in kind "buenos dias". He types in my name, flicks to a spare page in my passport and stamps it valid for 90 days. End of story.
Happy as I am at the ease of it all, I'm kind of disappointed …. I'd planned and prepared such an epic speech.
Just like that, I'm back in Peru.
Emma is off on an adventure to Nazca, Huacachina and Arequipa and I'm hanging out in Lima for a few days. Before she leaves me, we reflect on our 2-month adventure;
Best country: Brazil was a surprising delight that captured our hearts. After being warned so much by friends, family and strangers about the violence of this country we very nearly changed our plans to avoid the place. What we experienced however was incredibly friendly people, interesting places, stunning scenery, hilarious stories and a great atmosphere. Admittedly our senses were heightened, we were smart and cautious, using common sense. But at the end of the day there was nothing about this country that didn't delight; from the simplest border crossing on the planet; the country's spectacular introduction at Iguazu Falls; the lively and fun Sao Paulo; the captivating and relaxing Paraty; to the stunning and beautiful Rio.
Best city: Buenos Aires in Argentina was just outstanding by far! Energetic yet peaceful; grand yet unpretentious; crowded yet calming; fascinating architecture (statues included) and such a rich and interesting history.
Best tour: The La Boca free walking tour in Buenos Aires was a surprising delight. We thought it would be about the multi coloured streets of the area, but we learned so much more about Argentina on this tour. From its humble beginnings; how Tango really started; the insane genocide that took place in the 70's; to the country's immense love for the game of football.
Best tour guide: The Recoleta Cemetery free walking tour guide was incredible. So passionate and knowledgeable, she made the cemetery come alive with the stories she told us of its inhabitants and how historic this place runs in the modern world.
Best meal/food: Again, Argentina wins the prize with their traditional parilla BBQ - kidneys, intestines and all! Maybe it was because I hadn't eaten red meat for many, many months but their steaks truly tasted out of this world!
Best accommodation: Well, this is a bit of a tie …. Paraty boutique hotel in Brazil was outstandingly relaxing and the staff were incredibly helpful. But the Bolivian Copacabana hotel had an actual fireplace in our room (which ofcourse we sat around, drinking red wine) and llamas in the garden that were not only cute but super friendly. Tough call, so tie it is.
Best taxi driver: This would have to be the man in Rio who, upon realising that we spoke no Portuguese and he spoke very little English, rang his friend on his cell to translate that the mall we had asked to go to was rather small and boring. He could take us to a better one.
Best friendly local: As Emz and I sat on the steps in the Santiago Plaza de Armas, just people watching and being in the moment, a little old man with a subtle German accent approached us. Cynically expecting him to ask us for money we were surprised to learn that he just wanted to chat to English speakers. He was 90+ years old and waited everyday in this spot for his daughter to pick him up after work. He was born in Germany and moved to Chile when he was a young man, never to return home. He was a delight. Telling us about his life, what we should look out for, and why people do what they do here in Santiago. His daughter never did turn up that day. Now I wonder if she even exists. Or does he simply fill in his days dreaming and talking to strangers about better times.....
Best animal encounter: Even though the Amazon rates very highly when it comes to animal encounters, both Emz and I loved the monkeys in the Botanical Gardens of Rio. So crazy, so free, playful and unafraid.
Overall best experience: For Emz it was the spectacular Iguazu Falls of course. Incredibly powerful and mesmerising. For me, it was trekking through the Amazon and swimming in the river itself with the pink dolphins.
Thanks Emz and Barb for a great adventure and for putting up with my special kind of crazy. Don't ever forget to look up ladies!!
Home sweet home .....
Arriving back in NZ was bittersweet. I'm loving the fact that I can flush toilet paper down the toilet. Yup, you read right! In South America the paper does not go into the toilet. This was a shock when I first arrived. One of my close friends in NZ warned me beforehand, but somehow I imagined it differently and that perhaps it was just in really remote areas. Nope. It's everywhere and anywhere, from modern inner-city malls to shacks in the heart of the Peruvian desert. Their plumbing systems are not great quality right throughout, and so there is always a rubbish bin next to the toilet. At first it is the weirdest and grossest thing ever, but strangely you get used to it. After 8 months of not flushing the paper down the loo, I feel like I'm breaking some sort of law now.
Its lovely to have a cup of normal tea, eat toast with marmite and to hear the kiwi accent. But I miss the liveliness of South America.
I hadn't realised how much I'd gotten used to always something going on around me; people out and about; cars always tooting to let me know they are there; everyday learning something new either about life, or myself. I miss the people I developed close relationships with and the open and passionate way they communicate. I miss the clean, organic food that tastes like heaven with every mouthful. I love driving again but I miss the normality of walking everywhere. I miss the feeling of being at altitude. I even have to admit (just a little) that I miss the stares - uncomfortable as they made me feel, somewhere along the journey I must have got used to them.
The purpose of this blog for me was about creating a coffee table book that one day I will reflect on. Inadvertently I have enjoyed capturing my thoughts and feelings for you all though. I paid more attention to what I was seeing, experiencing or hearing - knowing that I needed to describe it to you. To those who have enjoyed my ramblings I am eternally grateful for your support and encouragement. Your comments got me though times of doubt and self-criticism.
The adventure of the last 8 months has been intimidating and frightening yet uplifting and exciting; but most of all its been life changing. Planning and scheduling meticulously have ceased to dominate my world; comfortable with the unknown and the unplanned. Trusting that the universe has my back.
Hasta la próxima aventura …. gracias y buenas noches! Till the next adventure …. thankyou and goodnight!
A year on .....
Upon returning to NZ I ended up in hospital with the same infection that I'd battled for so, so long finally taking over my body. My inflammation count was 341. Normal range is 0-5. The specialists said a couple more days and I wouldn't be here to tell this story.
Hard as it was to leave the liveness and adventures of South America, I knew in my heart I needed to come home. Trust was my word for 2018 and I'm so grateful I listened. All the way along the universe had been guiding and protecting me. I just needed to listen to it and belive in it.
It's been over a year now since I came home and I'm pleased to say, have recovered fully. So much so that I'm about to finish up a 12-month work contract and do it all again .... setting off on another adventure!
I wasn't going to blog this time around but maybe I should. Feel free to come along for the ride …..
- comments
Sarah W I'm so glad you had such an amazing time. Worth the initial nerves then I think!!
Paula.w Hey Mish I have so enjoyed your words you are a natural writer. I want you to keep travelling! (purely selfish motivations) maybe you could stay with the blog even tho you are home?
Sue Hey Cuz So pleased you have made the connection and have learned to trust the universe. The universe when you ask, gives to you, when the time is right and reminds you always of your need for humbleness and humility in this world. And, although at times it delivers differently to what you think you should receive, it is always right. It knows you and what you need and when you need it. Having trust in yourself, faith in the universe and the connection to know it’s comfort, leaves a person in peace.
Raewyn Have enjoyed your blogs immensely. You are a naturally gifted writer who draws the reader in and makes them feel part of the adventure. So glad you've had a great time, will miss your regular blogs, but am happy you're back safe and can now recharge your battery ready for whatever next.
Barbara Kerr It certainly was an adventure but one that is not to be regretted in any way. Thanks for the memories.