We schedule to go to Sighishoara on the train at about 11:45am so I do some reading and wash some clothes; they'll dry in 5 minutes in this heat. We all go to get the train and Stef and Simon get accosted by an old German man at the train station for sitting where he wants to walk. Just as the train is arriving, so does Chris, the all-American action hero with two backpacks, sunglasses and a smile as wide as the Grand Canyon. We board the train, which is a 1980's French number with seats that face each other and good luggage racks and get chatting. After a bit Chris comes to talk to us and actually tells us a good amount of facts about Hungary, and everything else. Did you know that on average, each American family gives $2800 a year to NGOs? We also have a great discussion about the merits and social values of volunteering. After the train (which costs the equivalent of £1.20 to travel 50Km) we get pointed in the right direction by Chris (who is travelling onto Budapest), and set off walking in the hot sun.

On the way into Sighishoara we pass an amazing Unitarian church and cross the river that bisects the town. There are some writing on the river wall that we don't understand, but take photos of. We stop at a cafe as we are ravenous and try to order everything on the menu except a cheese toastie, to which we are told 'no' and pointed towards the cheese toasties; "they are very good!" As this is one of the only chances we will get to eat what we want on this trip, we decide to go elsewhere. We find a place with salads and fries(!) in the main square to settle down for food and a beer whilst Simon entertains us with an impersonation of a crab.

Cracking on, we find some amazingly ridiculous gaudy Dracula merchandise, which Simon seems to particularly enjoy and slowly make our way up to the main castle/church/citadel part. The town is crazy-old, with part ruins everywhere and alleys that lead into nothing. We walk up a whole bunch of covered steps to a large cathedral and breath-taking view. The steps play host to the best busking spot for the most mediocre buskers I have ever encountered; a captive audience of thousands for bad instrumental covers of 'Come as you are'. We see a busk of Vlad Tepes (the impaler), get accosted by fancy dressed women wearing Venetian masks and finally head back to town for ice cream. We realise that we have a few hours spare so try to find the Oak reserve that Lonely Planet says was going to be cut down to make room for a Dracula theme park. However, we get a bit lost on the outskirts of the town thanks to a pesky butterfly, and when we finally get to the forest it's pretty much time to get to the train. We grab takeaway pizza and a beer on the way and enjoy the whole thing on the station platform, to the envy of the roma boy who has been following us around all day.

We get in, in the dark at 10pm and are all exhausted so decide to go to bed after packing for the village in the morning!