We left Baños in torrential rain and headed back towards Ambato. We were ditched on the side of the Pan American highway where we picked up a bus to Cuenca. It took around 7 hours but unlike the buses we had been on up till now, this one was nice. That evening (22nd) was the first night of the Corpus Christi religious celebrations and we were lucky enough to be able to watch an amazing procession at about 7pm from the balcony of the restaurant we were in. A band slowly marched past headed towards a church accompanied by a hundred or so people holding candles and umbrellas and singing with incense burning all around. Very spectacular and typically the one time I had left my camera back in the room so you will just have to take my word for it how good it was!!
Cuenca itself is a really nice city with a pretty colonial centre that is a UNESCO site. Much nicer than Quito. We spent the day wandering the city and even did an open top tour bus. Because of Corpus Christi there were loads of stalls selling sweets (not sure of the connection myself) and being highly religious people (hmmm!) we obviously had to stuff our faces with a wide variety of tasty and not so tasty sweets. It is a very relaxing city with a good vibe and lots of nice shops, houses etc.