Day 27: Rain and Luxury (O Cebreiro to Samos)
It has absolutely lashed down today! From leaving our albergue at 5:30 to arriving in Samos at 14:00 it has not stopped raining: welcome to Galicia!
With our anoraks zipped up to their fullest and out belongs tucked optimistically inside various waterproof arrangements, we walked through what was undoubtably beautiful arable farmland and hamlets. That being said, I didn't look up from my laces too often; you know you're simply trudging on when you walk through small village paths that are streaming with cow dung and you just splash straight through it.
A whole host of creatures mate realised out of the mist on today's walk. I apathetically joined a very long procession of cows that eyed me in a bored fashion as they were taken to a different pasture and numerous, gigantic dogs barked and followed me for a surprisingly long amount of time through the winding country lanes. One monster was so close that I could feel his deep, booming barks vibrating though the back of my knee caps!
At around 12:30 I arrived at Triacastela, the town of three castles...three castles which no longwr exist, though you can see them depicted on an ancient parish's tower. With rain flooding the street of Triacastela and with no real inclination to stop despite the 25km hike I decided to plod on to Samos, a town roughly 11km further on, with a bit of a sigh and a shrug I set off again.
The walk to Samos was another dull one where I crossed, re-crossed and walked alongside the busy LU-633 bypass.
I am however, glad that I picked Samos as it had an absolutely stunning and enormous monastary there! The town had sort of wrapped itself around it at the bottom of a remote, green valley, it was a very strange and isolated place to build such a gigantic structure. It is said to be one of the oldest monasteries in the western world, having been built in the 6th century. I was also told that to touch the Romanesque Chapel at the rear led you to remain blister free: I rubbed and kissed the thing diligently, here's to hoping!
Being soaked and freezing for the past 9 hours led me to seek out a little luxury. Steering away from the donitivo which looked musty and damp with weary travellers I spotted an alluring albergue which offered a private room, bathroom and more importantly a radiator for a glorious €11! With my shoes and clothes drying on a radiator and after a lengthy shower followed by some Galician broth and red wine, I'm ready to face tomorrow again!