Thursday 15th May.
MB up at 5.30am to get the fishing gear ready for our cruise to Savai'i leaving at 6am. Just as the full moon goes down and the sun comes up, looks like a nice day.
9am first hook up lots of line taken out nothing jumps. MB is the only one up so he is on the rod for a good work out. Its a Masi Masi about 12kg, sam gaffs the fish expertly and it is in the esky.
2 hours after, another hook up, Dennis is in the chair. Good long stand up fight and gets it to the boat, we take the double but the fish takes off under the boat and the line snaps. No more hook ups. We arrive in Manase Bay the north end of the island. Beautiful sheltered bay with fishing and diving supposed to be good.
However it proves to be a bit rolly with swell and strong winds. Stabilizers are on constantly. We thought it was a good idea to move to another part of the bay but an officious German Orloff who runs the dive shop orders us to move saying we are ruining part of the bay. Wayne who runs the Savai'i Beach Resort says that it is bulls*** but our captain is very obliging.
A problem with this bay is that you can't get on and off the very nice beach at low tide. Coral is exposed. Wayne is a great help in finding a driver for us for the next day. Fresh fish for dinner and early bed.
Friday
Up at 5am to meet our Driver Sam who will take us to Aganoa Beach Surf Camp, near the village of Satupaitu on the south coast. This camp is owned by an ex Aussie Keith who has lived here for 16 years. He has been highly recommended by lots of people. After 1.5 hours drive mostly in the dark we arrive at this stunning place, greeted by a young surfing guide Tom, he explains how the camp is set up with a large open dining room overlooking the surf beach. He explains you have to surf an hour before and after high tide. It looks a spectacular large barreling wave. Keith tells us the day before it was almost twice the size and only 3 boogie board were able to handle it. They went out first and they were great. We followed PB this time on Jed's shorter board, Dennis on boogie. It was big fast and daunting, MB had a go with a late take off, then was smashed twice by two monster 8ft waves, but so was everyone else. Dennis got thoroughly trashed, says he has never been underwater so long and thought he was goner. Immediately went back to shore. Next PB got a late take off on a monster and snapped his leg rope so he lost his board and was taken out by a rip and saved by a boogie boarder. MB perseveres to get a few super fast waves and a few wipeouts. We had breakfast at the camp with the fellow surfers and Keith who was super friendly telling us about the history of Samoan surfing and other places we could surf that would be more mellow.
We got back to Savai'i Beach Resort to find the tide too low to get off the beach back to BP. Graeme and MB decide to paddle back some 800m, the captain on a borrowed plastic canoe and MB on Jed's board. Exhausting. We mounted a rescue mission using a jetski and a canoe but could not get tot eh beach, so left the guys until the tide came in some 4 hours later. But they said they were happy having lunch, wine etc. MB had a quiet time working and reading by himself.
Wayne came on board for cocktails and to look over BP. He has been very friendly and informative telling us about living in a country where it is most difficult to get people to respond to simple problems. He also explains how most Samoans have to give a lot of their income to church and clergy therefore live in luxury with these hand outs. No wonder there are so many churches.
We are going to bed early because of our early starts, tomorrow is another surf safari.
Saturday
6.30 am start, we head off with our driver Sam. Bernie and Dennis have given up and stay onboard so PB and MB drive through beautiful country side and villages along the north coast down the west coast about 1.5 hours to the village of Satuitua. There we meet the local surfer Lee who shows us where the breaks are. This is more like us, about 1 meter with an easy paddle. It is still fast and barreling but not as bruising a wipeout as we have lately experienced. We had about 1 and three quarter hours in the water joined in the end by Lee who surfs well. This is a very beautiful place and we will be back.
Our driver Sam is a really keen local explaining all sorts of aspects of the native culture and traditions. He explains that most people live by subsistence farming. Religion and village structure plays a huge part of their lives influencing discipline morality security and tidiness that appears to make this island an idyllic tropical paradise.
In the mean time Graeme has moved BP to a bay at Asau an anchors in front of a beautiful resort named ....... which has a proper beach and pier to make easy landing. Graeme tells us that the entrance of this bay had an extremely entrance and the chart location was totally incorrect. He was lucky to have the local resort owner and resort owner Sale guide him into the bay, which is a large and protected anchorage being overlooked by extensive tropical mountains, beautiful.
There is a strong wind but no swell, we would like to stay here until we go home.
We have a nice lunch including playing the regular Age quiz which the boys and crew are now looking forward to and enjoying, except for Sam. In the afternoon we explore the bay for snorkeling. Could not find a really clear spot with descent coral and fish which was disappointing but we have had a lot of wind and rain. We dined at the resort restaurant to give our chef a break from the galley, hosted by Dennis as it is his last night. We are entertained by local music and singing, all good fun.
Sunday
Dennis leaves on a charter flight to Faleolo international airport. We were worried the plane may not arrive as there is heavy rain and large cloud cover over the mountains. MB, BW and PB take a ride to the Catholic Church with one of the locals. The church is a stunning new building as the old one was destroyed by the cyclone in 2012. It is huge with open sides fabulous stained glass windows. How they can afford such a building is hard to work out. The mass is in Samoan but the priest addressed us in English and says welcome. We are the only non natives there. Singing as usual and the congregation are colourful and very friendly. Its a rest day for us all but at 4pm MB tells the boys we are fishing hoping to catch a large a pelagic. Sale who owns the resort has told us to go out 3 nm to the 1000m drop off and then troll6 nm to cape Puava where he says there are often big fish. Sea is a bit choppy we have bought our expert Sam along to help set the lines and hopefully gaff a fish. Nothing all the way down and no sign of birds.
We decide on the return trip to come in closer to shore and fish along the reef. Bingo. We land a 13kg Wahoo with Bernie on the rod, Sam gaffing this great fish. PB hooks a smaller fish near the entrance to the harbour. We thought it was a rainbow runner but later learned it is one of the mackerel family. Everyone elated. For dinner fresh wahoo sashimi and Tuna Crudo. We watched the film Dallas Buyers Club. Tough but great acting movie about AIDS in Texas in the 80's.
Monday
Wake to sunshine and absolutely flat sea, we are surfing again today at our favourite break Satuiatua.
Bernie has joined us with boogie board.
Swell is a bit smaller but just as ridable, we all get waves in our one and three quarter hour session and are exhausted.
It is very hot and we are happy to back on board for a great lunch of pan fried Mackerel and Wahoo (Delicious), Salad and washed down with an elegant french white wine.
We are relaxing resting and getting ready for our young American Yoga Instructor, Madi for a twilight session. Yoga was great, sam and the boys joined in. Madi stayed for dinner and explain life as a US Peace Corp worker, living in a Samoan village for 2 years. She teaches at the local school and teaches yoga to the rugby team. She explains what a simple life these people lead. Shower with a bucket, hard bed and prayer time every evening. She really enjoyed the hot shower and the luxurious meal on board.
Tuesday
Out early 6am for fishing. Sun just coming up and another beautiful dayOur fishing guide is Sale who we learn has 11 children; 6 in Savai'i, 3 in NZ, and 2 in Tasmania, but he is happy. He takes us to what he explained was the 1000m drop off but he found he meant 2000m drop off. We troll south 6nm eventually sighting birds quite active and small fish feeding. We were hoping for a large tune, maybe 100kg. We hook a good size Wahoo, PB taking the rod and Sale gaffing it. Blood everywhere. After cleaning the boat down we chase the birds again hoping to at least to get a Skipjack tuna. No luck. We had a beautiful lunch of BBQ Wahoo back ribs. Glass of french Rose, with the Age quiz and Bernie's joke of the day. Lots of laughs. The boys are off in a few hours, we have had a great 10 days.
With the boys gone at 4pm we decide as it is a beautiful afternoon to have a short fish along the reef, thinking we might catch a barracuda which we are keen to try as a meal.
MB with Sam and Nigel troll light gear with small rapalas. We were almost disappointed but as we get closer to the harbour entrance we hook onto a Blue Fin Trevally which Sam enjoys catching. No other strikes until we come into the bay when we hook up again handing Nigel the rod for second only fish and he brings in a nice medium sized Spanish Mackerel. We can't shut him up as he now thinks he is the greatest!
Great meal with the crew and a film called "Ted" lots of laughs, but MB too exhausted to finish.
Wednesday
Up late and decided to have a rest from outdoor activities. Catch up with all my work related jobs, write the blog, edit photos etc. I hadn't realised how many things I had to do including catch up with the building project of the home at Portsy, Sorting out where the art collection is going etc.
It was a beautiful day, hot, no wind, mirror calm sea. After my normal swim and yoga session and breakfast I got stuck into it and it took me all day to finish all my jobs.
We had Madi again for yoga class and dinner, early to bed to be up early fishing.
Thursday
Not too early a start. Sea was flat calm, no wind. We decided to fish the seamount on the 2000m drop off. The mount comes up to 450m. We trolled criss crossing several times. No birds, no flying fish, nothing biting. Nigel after the other night thought you caught fish every time you go out.
Nigel and MB go surfing. Nigel has a boogie board and has not surfed for some years. The surf at Salailua is constant only about a metre, fast take off. MB has the zone sussed out and Nigel after a few waves gets the hang of it and rides some good waves. Now giving himself the nickname "Kelly". The drive to and from BP to the village of Salailua is always good. We stopped to see boys playing their brand of cricket using a heavy 3 sided bat, a hard cork ball and being played on an elevated concrete pitch. We weren't sure how they were scoring as all they did was wack the ball as far as they could and weren't running between wickets.
The crew and I dining together doing the aged quiz and talking about everyones adventures.
Friday
Weather was supposed to change radically from no wind to 30km per hour and increasing swell.
It is mirrow calm and no swell. Sam, Nigel and MB take off to troll the cape and the 2000m drop off. Sale had caught a marlin the day before and we thought we may get a Tuna although we spotted some flying fish but that was all. No birds, so another non event.
There is a cloud build up so it looks like the change is coming.
Captain is scuba diving cleaning the bottom of the boat, Nigel and MB with the driver Daniel head off to the surf. The swell has not increased and it looks like it has dropped. As we set off heading south through the middle of the island we had some torrential rain sometimes so intense we could not see. We have a good hours surfing and several fishing boats come in at high tide so we visit the fisherman to see if they have tuna. Daniel says we can buy a tuna for 10 Tala ($5). It is a Skipjack Tuna. The only fish they have is marlin which they are butchering.
We then visit an old lady making tapa which she is preparing to sell at the Saturday market in Apia. She is in the final stages of this labour intensive artwork using a carved wooden stencil places the tapa material on top and rubs die over the material. She then finishes it with fine paint brushes using natural pigments to fisnish the detail. A lot of her images are similar to Samoan tattoos. We have arranged with her to come back on Tuesday to see how they make the tapa material.
Saturday
Pete and Suzanne McGuiness and TIm Penbroke are arriving at lunchtime. They are traveling from Upolu to Savai'i by ferry with Sam picking them up at the terminal.
I have advised them to visit Keith's surf camp at Aganoa Beach.
Again the day is hot humid and windless totally the opposite again to what is forecasted.
In the afternoon we take our first our surf safari to Salailua. Unfortunately Peter arrives without his surfboard as it has been broken in half on the plane. He has to borrow Jed's 6"9 board which with his sore back finds it impossible. Suzanne takes the Mal and finds some waves. Tim on the boogie board has a great time but finishes early with cramps in his hamstrings. I told them they should not have had beer and wine for lunch but they were so excited about being here they could not help themselves. After dinner we watched the Anthony Hopkins film Fracture. Great.
Sunday
We go to mass where we are made to feel most welcome. As we enter a lady comes up to Suzanne to place a beautiful fresh flower lei around her neck. Then another lady presents Tim and MB and Peter with a lei. We learnt later that this woman is the sister of the man we rescued several days before from being wrecked on the reef.
The mass is in Samoan, however the priest makes special welcome to us in English asking us whether we are from NZ or Australia. We raise our hand to the later and he responds " G'day mate".
Singing again is powerful and very harmonic. At the end of mass a group of teenage perform a stunning native dance much to everyones applause.
As it is Sunday no surfing is aloud so I take the group fishing but is is very rough and nothing biting.
MB leads a solid Yoga session at twilight. We then start a canasta lesson with open hands and learning the rules.
Monday
Calm and hot. We seemed to have two very distinct climates on this island. That is where we are in the lagoon of Asau bay on the north side whereas on the south coast and the middle is windy and wet. To keep everyone on their toes we are having a beach volleyball match using the resort's court. The crew "tatoos" versus the guests "cleanskins" in a fiery game the guest win by 3 points then change ends. Crew wins easily the second game and just wins the playoff. My team the "cleanskins" retire injured and exhausted but our average age between our team and the tatoos is about 20 years apart.
After lunch and a rest we are off surfing again. The swell has almost disappeared but still a smaller ridable wave. Peter has stayed home to rest his back. Suzanne gets a few neat rides. We have fun and it is stunning with no wind and a beautiful sunset. After dinner we begin a serious canasta session. Our rookie Tim cleans up in the first hand with MB as they take the lead. The second hand we have a little controversy (angry words) ending in throwing in the hand to start again. Pete and Suzanne romp home. Third hand leaves MB and Tim slightly in front to resume again tomorrow night.
I go to bed to try and finishing my novel Baraccuda, the rest watch the great film "Railway Man"
Tuesday
MB up early to fish. Others wanted to go but couldn't get out of bed. Nigel driving tender, I hook a Mackerel Scad after 1.5 hrs trolling. Good eating but again disappointing.
Today it's raining so everyone happy to rest and read. In the afternoon MB takes Tim to fish. Tim has never caught a trophy fish but we are happy to get anything. The weather is mild. We troll the entrance to the reef backwards and forwards in and out with no result. We decide to race down to the cape about 6nm west it's not super rough but quite bumpy. But disaster. The tender bait board was shaken loose and lost overboard. Someone had forgotten to put on the lock.
Before we have a late surf we are visiting the tapa lady. When we arrive she advises us she is in a ladies meeting and cannot keep the appointment. Our driver Daniel however finds us another lady in the village who is prepared to show us how they make the tapa. She charges us 20 Tala per person for the lesson. We assemble in her house and she explains through Daniel there are 12 steps in producing not only in the material but in the end painting. The first stage is stripping the bark from a mulberry tree, she then peels the skin from the bark and then proceeds on a piece of wood using what looks like a large cockle shell and water to massage this material which expands as its thins out. This is very labour intensive after the first 4 steps she then beats the material after folding in half and then quarters on a large wooden block which looks like a wooden pestle, this again thickens and at the same time expands the material. She then lays this on the floor and using her hands presses all the moisture out.
After this material has dried she is able to place it on the stencil and cover it with the die as I mentioned previously.
We are all very impressed and have bought 4 turtle images costing 30 Tala each. After dinner we continue our canasta match. Pete and Suzanne win decisively the final round. The game was not without its incidences.
Wednesday
Sea is mirror calm again no wind. As the high tide was so early this morning we decided not to surf hoping that tomorrow the swell may increase. Although we talk about doing activities no one seems to be upset that they are lying around sleeping and reading.
We consider as we have written the last part of the blog how repetitious this stay in Asau has become. Normally on our adventures we have moved to find new locations but lack of good anchorages and the weather have made us remain in this place. However as we look out from BP it is most beautiful tropical paradise and we feel we are falling into Samoan way of life.
We could not sit still all day. Tim decided to try wake boarding, Suzanne and Peter take the surf ski and stand up board for a long paddle.
We suggest after lunch we might try scurfing and we had a kneel in the doughnut. It was really a hot and humid day. The lagoon is flat calm, so out come the toys. Paul had bought a new bright yellow two seater doughnut which Tim and I said we would try. We felt like a couple of old men being towed behind the Tenda. Pete and Suzanne have a go and look like Ma and Pa in their floating armchair. We decided it was not enough thrill, so out came the old fast, red doughnut. Tim has to have a go this is more his thrill style with high speed corners and spectacular crashes. MB is wiser as he has done this before.Nigel likes the idea so we gave him a super fast turn with spectacular crashes.
Next, Peter has a go at scurfing on the Mal, not bad for an old fellow. MB has a great ride followed by Tim on the kneeboard. Everyone is thoroughly exhausted and sore. Maddie arrives with her mother Cindy for twilight yoga.
Cindy lives in Utah USA, but has just arrived form Melbourne where she participated in a conference. We have a great one hour session following a fabulous sunset. We then take everyone to dinner at 'Sallies' Resort Va-i-Moana seaside lodge'. During dinner two of the locals play Samoan music on guitars, followed by local folk songs sung by the waitresses and musicians.
We celebrate Suzanne and Peter's 36 th wedding anniversary. Our host Tim spoke about Peter and Suzannes companionship in sport, travel and intellect. Pete responded on how lucky they had been in enjoying each other's companionship.Next we celebrate Maddies 25th birthday, with the band singing in Samoan. We have a dance with Tim starting to get out of control. Overall a great nights celebration.
Thursday. We are up early, some sore and stiff people from yesterday's activites. We are surfing the high tide at 8AM at 'Salantia'. So, we are up at 5.30 and leave by 6.15. After the last few days we are hoping the swell has improved as predicted. It is still dark as we travel south,yes the swell has improved, no wind so the sea is flat calm. It looked great.
We have 1.5 hours in the waves. There are some great waves. Suzanne and Tim on Boogie boards, MB on knee board. Pete struggles with the Mal as it is a fast, solid wave over coral. Before we leave this area we visit the village to pick up our 'Tapas' with the turtle image, they look great.
BP has left the lagoon and is standing off shore. They had to get out at high tide through the very narrow entrance. The sea is beautifully calm and we arrive by tenda. We have thanked and farewelled the staff at Salli's Va-i-Moana, seaside resort. We would recommend his place if you wanted a peaceful natural holiday, surrounded by native villages.
We are now heading back to our original Savaii anchorage at Matautu Bay, after almost two weeks.
We have three fishing lines out. The trip is three hours and the cruise tomorrow to Upolu, will be six hours. We caught no fish, so the theory of the sea being hot at 29.5 degrees, instead of the usual 28, seems correct.
We arrive at Manase near twilight. Although the bay has less swell than two weeks ago, we still need to activate the stabilizers. Tim and MB venture ashore to see Wayne, the resort manager. Although Tim thinks this resort is much more luxurious than Salli's, Salli's is more natural.
Over a beer, Wayne confirms that he thinks the lack of fish is the high water temperature. I have cleaned out the DVD cupboard on BP, which I was hoping to trade for new ones with Wayne, but he confesses his DVD's are so old they a re not worth having. However, he is very grateful for the gift we give him.Back on board we try our hand at bait fishing, hoping for Snapper etc. We have a few solid strikes but all busted off. Either barracuda or sharks.
We start a new canasta game, Tim pairing with Suzanne. Peter and I are a bit more advanced than Tim taking a solid lead, to finish tomorrow.
Friday. It is an early start for our long cruise at 8 knots so we can fish on the way. An hour out we have a strike. A Marlin leaps from the sea, jumping and thrashing and taking out a lot of line. Tim belts up and cannot believe how strong the fish is. He is still fighting after 45 minutes, he gets to within 7 meters but it thrashes around and breaks the line. Tim had a trophy fish!
The sea is calm and we are relaxing, reading and resting, that is what Samoa is all about.
Tomorrow I leave for a very long trip to see my beautiful wife Janet in Siracusa, Sicily.
MB