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After another day of chilling in Arequipa, partly enforced by a bus strike, we took ourselves out to the Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world. We opted to take the public bus instead of a tour. Not on the basis of cost, just because throughout the year we've consistently found it more fun to be on our own. Ahhh. This meant we started in Chivay, the capital of the region and where the tours normally finish.
We didn't really see much of the famous canyon's depth but it was certainly a impressive looking canyon in the sun with terraces of yellow crops. Because of our backwards approach we missed the condors with their 10 foot wing spans. But we did get to spend the entire first day at Chivay in the hot springs and blazing sunshine! And the hotel we sayed in had a resident alpacpa which among other cute things ate some of the roof and made a noise like a murmuring young girl.
That night we went over to a very posh hotel complex that has it's own massive telescope and mini plantarium. After a brief explanation of what can be seen from the southern hemisphere we had a look at some of the constellations and 'space clouds' at 1200 times magnification! And after that we had a look at the full moon with a smaller telescope. It was amazing.
Maybe I'm being cynical, I hope I am, but the next day we fell victim to the old bus strike trick. This is where the owner of a car tells you that there's no buses due to a strike, which is a completely believable scenario, and then conveniently offers you a lift! While we were thinking about it, having breakfast etc.. we missed the bus and found out that there wasn't a bus strike in the first place!
We shared a taxi (not the one previously offered) with a couple of Germans to keep the costs down and on the whole it worked out better as we could stop to take some photos of the canyon. So that was that, we weren't up for walking all the way to the bottom and back, so after half an hour wandering round Cruz del Condor where some giant condors sometimes fly by, we jumped on the next bus back to Arequipa.
On arrival in Arequipa we booked a bus that night for Ica, famous for Pisco and Huacachina. The latter being where 'everyone' goes for the sand boarding, and to drive around the dunes in turbo charged sand buggies. So that's what we did. The buggy was very cool and so was hurtling down the dunes on our stomaches. Standing up was a bit advanced for our first time. But, inspired by the experienced snowboarder we were with I gave it a try but kept having to fall over to stop myself crashing down the hill. When I finally got to the bottom Emily came after speeding down at about 100 miles an hour lying on her board. That looked like much more fun.
On the next slope I threw myself straight down by lying on the board and Emily tried it on her feet. Unfortunately she didn't apply the emergency break and just got faster and faster until the front of her board dug into the sand. All I can say is, there was surprisingly dull thud when her face smashed into the sand! It was a scary moment, Emily said she could smell the fear on me afterwards. Fortunately no serious damage was done and certainly none to her a spirit, just sand everywhere!!
After that we took it a bit more easy and decided we needed to chill a bit before heading to the former slave plantation in Chincha. So we stayed the night and went out for fish and pisco sours by the lake in the middle of the desert. Surreal.
The next morning we headed on to Chincha, looking forward to a real life history lesson by visiting the ex slave plantation Hacienda San Jose. We had heard stories from taxi drivers of cats wondering around everywhere (enough to eat apparently) and near permanent Afro Peruvian samba fiestas in the neighbouring town El Carmen.
We did receive one warning that it never lives up to the high expections so we weren't too shocked when they turned our taxi away on arrival at the hacienda gates! Apparently no one's been allowed in for a year! So we asked to be driven around the neighbouring village. No cats, no partying people - just poverty. Not the kind of place you want to spend the night unless you're up for some serious intercultural documentary style social encounters. I probably exaggerate. But due to the previous day's sand boarding accident and the onset of flu, Emily was unable to turn her body to the right so was in no shape for a night like that. And it was overcast, so chilling in the plaza wasn't even an option. So we headed back to the bus station and bought a ticket to go further north, passed Lima, straight onto Barranca, home to some 5000 year old pyramids.
We had a bit more luck this time, although they were a bit less pointy than the lonely planet suggested. And we weren't allowed to climb them. We had to go round the site with a spanish speaking guide in a group of 30! But in that group were a great family from Lima we met and shared a taxi with on the way. We had a good day and then went to eat some cheap Chinese food.
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