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“Pull over to the left as far as you can mate” The road worker advised as we travlled the state highway.... “there's a pretty big house following behind.”
Kiwi's take the term 'moving house' literally.
MOUNT COOK AND AROUND
One of the best ways to view Mt Cook, New Zealand's highest peak, is said to be from across the bright turquoise, glacially fed waters of Lake Pukaki. Astonishingly, our luck on the free camping front continued and we blagged a quite fantastic spot right on the lake, with prime views of the glorious snow capped mountain dead ahead. We took full advantage of the rare sunshine that day and sat outside, side by side and contemplated just how great life was – beer in hand of course. The next day we would be venturing up close and personal with the beast, rest was needed.
When we woke the next morning, it appeared that magician David Copperfield had visited New Zealand during the night and made Mt Cook his next target – it had completely disappeared. Although us and the 'lovebug' were still baked in hot sunshine, the mountains across the water were completely shrouded in mist. This didn't seem to deter the hoards of Japanese tourists, whom we encountered at the Lake Pukaki visitor centre nearby. They continued to pose for photos in front of what was now essentially just a cloud.
So off we headed towards the mount, feeling optimistic that as the day wore on, the mist would clear. Instead, as we neared the base, the sunshine turned to cloud, the cloud turned to mist, the mist turned to drizzle which then in turn became a thunderous downpour and all the while good old Mt Cook was still nowhere to be seen. We were still hopeful of re-strapping on the action sandals for a trek and hung around base camp for a couple of hours, until a weather forecast advised all walks for the day to be cancelled and confirmed that the rain was going nowhere. Nothing left then, but the hour long drive back to the state highway and the continuing road north. Maybe Mr. Copperfield could have done something about the weather.
All was not lost as we had another mount on our agenda, a trip back into MiddleEarth and Mount Sunday, a.k.a 'Edoras', capital of 'Rohan'. Lets hope there'd be no obstacles foiling our attempts to scale this one.
EDORAS – MOUNT SUNDAY
Mt Sunday is literally in the middle of nowhere, its not signposted and the route to it is a perilous and tiresome one. However, 100km of tight country roads, followed by over 2 hours of bone shaking loose rock and gravel track scaling winding hillsides and barren farmland was not enough to deter us – the end reward would make it all worthwhile. The prospect of standing on top of the hill in the shoes of Aragorn, King Theoden & Co was filling us with excitement and Dan's uncontrollable script reciting touretts was becoming a problem.
The first view of the outcrop as we rounded one of the final bends was both encouraging and satisfying. It's clear to see that 'Edoras' is one of the most instantly recognisable of the film sets in the country and we'd made it. All that stood between us and a mountain top re-enactment was a stroll across a field and the 100m climb to the top.
After 20 minutes of field crossing, with our goal getting ever closer, we encountered a problem...a river. We were not to be outdone though and off came the shoes and socks to wade through the icy knee deep alpine waters. Onwards we went, who needs the 4x4 all terrain tour bus?...Evidently, we did!! Not 5 minutes after our victorious river crossing, another one appeared, this time a fully fledged chin height fast flowing rapid – more a channel than a river. The only way across, it seemed, was by boat and Dans feeble attempt only succeeded in getting him wetter and colder than he already was. We were defeated. The prize was agonisingly within our grasp, but we could do no more than admire it from a distance. For the second time in as many days, water, in one form another, had scuppered our plans and forced us to turn back.
NORTH WEST TO NORTH EAST
Ever onwards our northwards drive took us across the southern alps through the spectacular Arthur's Pass national reserve to the south island's western coast and then back east via one of only two roads which link the east and west coast – The Lewis Pass.
The driving alone was proving to be one of New Zealand's alluring features. The roads are never more than two lanes wide, the traffic is non-existent and as we've said previously you can pretty much stop for the day wherever you like. This was especially true the day of our last weekly 'big shop'. With fresh sausages on board, a 12pack of Tasman Ale and perfect BBQ'ing weather, we decided to call it a day early and found the perfect riverside spot to kick back and relax. The previous days heavy rainfall however, had caused the area around the river to become somewhat 'bogged', and yes, you've probably guessed it, for the second time in our short camper-vanning careers, we had gotten ourselves stuck and had to hit the desolate road on foot in search of a 4x4. To be stuck once could be considered unfortunate, we hear you say, but twice has to be bordering on the careless! Salvation this time came in the form of Ryan, the local farmer with a more than adequate truck and winch. This time the fun and games didn't cost us a nights rent as Ryan would take nothing more than a handshake for his troubles before wishing us well on our travels. What a nice man, what a very nice man.
FAR NORTH SOUTH ISLAND
As our ferry to the north island was booked in advance, it suddenly dawned on us that we were now working to a little more of a deadline with regards to distance and we were trying to cover more ground each day on our way to the far north ferry port of Picton.
As we awoke one morning, we realised our hitherto policy of leaving our weary trainers outside underneath the van overnight, to minimise pong in our compact living area, had backfired! Yes, we had left the poor things at a beach side sleeping spot some 200 kilometres away! Oh No!
After 'umm-ing' and 'arh-ing' for upto half an hour, we deduced that it would be better to pay for fuel to backtrack than to shell out over $200 for new trainers, that's if they were still where we'd left them. Dan was optimistic, LJ less so.
“Who's going to nick two pairs of smelly, worn out old trainers??”
He had a fair point, so off we trekked back along the roads we'd covered just 24 hours previously.
Travelling around the world gives you a chance to study its people and to conclude whether or not there is any evidence of the human spirit remaining in this modern age. As we pulled back into the rest area 26 hours after our last visit, it was clear to see that goodwill was definitely alive and well in New Zealand. Our pathetic looking trainers were sat there waiting for us, exactly where we had left them. Thankfully the backtrack had been wholly worthwhile.
With trainers now safely stowed on board, we re-hit the road already travelled – we had a ferry to catch and the north island to explore.
We'll see you in Wellington!!
Will update again after our ferry crossing.
Photo's of the south island will follow shortly.
Love to you all back home.
Danny & Laura xxx
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