We headed north over the equator (haven't stopped there yet to jump across and back again and marvel at the change in water direction - that's for Tuesday!) to Otavalo, a famous market town north of Quito. It's basically where all of the wares are made that are sold throughout the rest of South America - from mantelpiece tourist tat to jewellery and art to alpaca clothing, pashminas and sofa throws. Everyone else in our group has gone mad buying stuff.I'd love to...

We drove to an eco-lodge called Shangri-La just outside the small town of Tena. When we got to Tena to have lunch, there's been so much rain recently that the whole main street has washed away! The lodge was pretty cool - like a higgledy piggledy wooden house. We dumped our bags and then went for a jungle walk. There were 2 groups as one involved an obstacle course at the end and I didn't fancy that so 5 of us did an easier trail. You still needed to hoist yourse...

On Monday we had another long-ish drive to Rio Verde, near Banos where we were staying in a place called Pequeno Paraiso. This is a hostel and campsite run by Richard (a Scot and ex-Dragoman driver) and his French wife Bea. Beautiful setting in a lush garden. Apparently they built their house for about $500 and now it's worth $20k. Bea seems to run the guest side of things (although she was a bit miserable for my liking!) and Richard runs an adventure business wi...

Crossed the border into Ecuador today and could immediately see and feel the difference. Although in general a very poor country (almost 70% of people live below the poverty line) it felt much richer and better put together than Peru and certainly Bolivia. The infrastructure was good, the buildings were constructed well and not just cobble together and the people seemed better dressed and much more savvy. Even immigration don't just give you a stamp, they have an...

We left Huanchaco at stupid o'clock and headed to the Sipan museum, getting there just as it opened its gates! This is a place dedicated to an amazing find - the tomb of the Lord of Sipan who was around way before the Incas (so we're talking somewhere between 800 and 1400 AD). 100s of exquisite and priceless artefacts were recovered from the site and the actual tomb of the Lord, which was smothered in gold and jewels, was discovered in 1987 so all very recent. Th...