14th April 2012 Travelling to Ushuaia, Argentina

Well it was hardly worth going to sleep in the end. I woke up at 3:15am and checked my alarm was still working. At 4 o'clock my alarm went off and at 4:10am my day began by getting up. I put my clothes on and took some photos of the house including the kitchen, the lounge and the dining room for some strange reason. Why I really need photos of peoples' dirty dishes I don't know! About 4:40am I realised there was a problem as when I went out I couldn't lock the door behind me. I was tempted to leave it unlocked but I thought that may be a bit too risky. The taxi driver rang the doorbell at 5am and I went down and put my suitcase of clothes in. I asked whether he would mind waiting for a bit as I was concerned about leaving the door unlocked. In the end I woke up Alexander (I felt very bad doing it) and he came and locked the door behind me .

My taxi driver was very chatty and talked to him in Spanish for most of the journey. There was no chance in having my much needed sleep in the taxi. I arrived at the airport at 5:30am and my flight wasn't till 8:30am.

Finally we got on the flight and one of the air hostesses wasn't too happy as I didn't follow her instructions immediately in Spanish so I began to go down the wrong aisle. I was asked whether I had come from Madrid. All it was due to was being sleepy. Had the usual safety announcements- even the steward and air hostess was bored. I got orange juice, tea, cake, cereal bar and chocolate sweet on the plane. There was a TV in back of seat but I spent some time reading the flight magazine but most of the flight I spent asleep. The views coming into land in Ushuaia were especially good. Flying over mountains and then the sea. It actually looked like we were going to land in the sea as the runway is just on the edge of the coast. The parking for aircraft is huge but there were only about 3 planes there and one was like a little toy plane in contrast. The area when you arrive into airport is big too but once you go down to the baggage claim-it is small with only a short baggage claim area. My bag went round twice before I managed to receive it. I was letting someone past and by the time he had gone past me-my opportunity to get my bag had gone. I got a taxi to the hotel and was attended to in Spanish. After spending some time in my room I went out for a walk. I got a bit of a shock when I was walking next to the house next to the hotel and a Rottweiler and another dog came charging up to fence. I decided after some other dogs weren't very nice either that Ushuaia has a lot of fierce dogs. I was just thinking how lovely and peaceful Ushuaia was when a quad bike began roaring up. I walked the 20 minutes to town-it wasn't exactly a straight road or the best for scenery but I could still see mountains.

The first restaurant I saw looked nice but it said Ushuaia is capital of Malvinas. I didn't want get involved in political debates so I kept going. I found a nice restaurant/café. The waiter was very friendly and sussed very quickly that I was English and asked how I was in English. The only thing was he kept calling me sweetie. After coming out it was just beginning to rain and I walked around the town looking at travel agents for tours,the tourist information centre and the offices at the port area for selling boat tickets (once the sun had come out again). Later on after more walking around the different offices I got my passport stamped with stamps for the End of the World in the tourist office and listened to information given to other tourists in Spanish. The Argentinean people had already seen me I think on the flight today as they asked did you come today. Think we were on the same flight. I checked the weather in tourist office. The Argentinean people even gave me a mint chocolate and I had nothing to give them after having a jokey conversation about what they had bought. They had got them from somewhere which must also sell wine as the bag said vino on it. The lady at tourist office (who I know spoke at least 3 languages as she did some communication in French too and in English for me) said don't leave your bag or Suzanne might take it. I said its ok I don't like wine. When they said chocolates umm that's different.

I walked up the street a bit looking for a restaurant. I went in had a fillet steak and looked at my tourist information I had picked up. Suddenly seems so many options I can do. I then got taxi back to hotel.

15th April 2012 Ushuaia,Argentina

Well I've had a lovely day. I finally got myself out of bed at 7:50am. I then got a taxi down to the old tourist office (the one that isn't working as a tourist office any longer) and walked down to the port. I first went in one of the huts and then went to one of the boat ticket huts that I had visited yesterday. That was the one I had decided I wanted to go on. Yesterday another company had offered me a discount 180 pesos rather than 200 so I decided to try my luck and ask for a discount with this company. I thought its worth a try. They gave me 20 pesos off so it worked out to be 230 pesos. There were about 10 people on the boat. We first went to see the cormorants and sea lions on an island. We got quite close to them but we stayed on the boat as it went around the island. We were then shown the maps and we were 1000km away from Antarctica. Closer to Antarctica than Buenos Aires. We then stopped near another island where we watched the sea lions playing in the water. I watched a baby sea lion struggle to get back onto the rocks. We then went up to the lighthouse in the boat and there I was struggling with camera angles to get a good photo of the Dutch couple. We then began the journey back along the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia. At this point we had to go inside otherwise we would get splashed. I am lucky the Dutch lady didn't take offence and we all had a good laugh about it. They were looking at their photos and I just saw a shadow which I thought was a sea lion on its back. I asked was that a sea lion and when I looked again at the photo it was a photo of the girl with her arms out. Definitely nowhere near being a sea lion. Maybe not the best way of making friends but we did end up spending all day together. After I had a cup of tea, hot chocolate and biscuits during the cruise we went for a walk on Bridges Island. It was a very pleasant walk even if it was bitter. Unfortunately my camera was messing around here-turning off when I didn't want it too. There were some interesting plants which looked like rocks covered in moss but the whole thing was actually a plant.

After having another hot chocolate I went to be upstairs to be on deck as we were docking back into Ushuaia. I was then called back in for a toast and considering it was coffee and liquor it wasn't too bad. I don't usually like either of the ingredients. They then did a prize draw for the Argentinean flag on the boat which I won so I've got to take a photo of it in England. The Dutch couple were also going to see glacier later so asked whether I wanted to share a taxi. We first went to a restaurant and had lunch. There I had pizza. The tomato turned out to be pizza with tomato ketchup spread over it. After that we got a taxi to glacier and then got the chair lift up the glacier. It was very cold going up in the chair lift but I was pleased there was a bar that came over you for security. When we got up there we then began walking up towards the glacier. I was surprised to see a pit-bull up there which was going up to all the people there. We found out later, that we think it was a stray dog. He was a young dog and playful. He was so hard to get a photo of as he moved so fast. I was surprised the others didn't want to go all the way up to glacier and I would have liked to. I still saw some beautiful views over the beagle channel though. On the way down we stopped to take photos of the dog and the dog was jumping all over the Dutch male. I then tried and the dog nipped that my glove-I was very glad I had my gloves on so he didn't nip my hand. I was trying to encourage the dog to go over the bridge so I could get a photograph of him on the bridge. He then decided to cross back across the stream and he got scared half way through- just perched on a tiny rock. After we had got him off the tiny rock we went down to the tea house at the bottom and I left the others to go back up as my camera had stopped working just as the magnificent views over the Beagle Channel appeared. I managed to get some- my money flew out of my pocket in the wind so I had to chase it and luckily got it in a gutter running next to the hill-not a steep drop or anything-just a little channel. I was lucky I found it again with the different stones. I then had a bit of a run as I was a bit worried that I had left the others in the café too long. When I arrived though they hadn't even got their cake or drink yet so when the cake and drink arrived I just ordered a coke. I was surprised that they wanted to walk back to town. I wasn't very keen as I didn't want to arrive back in town too late. What I saw of it-it didn't look an amazing walk either the route we came up in taxi. However, we cut through some forests which were nice even if it was a bit muddy. We made reasonable time back to Ushuaia. First we went in a bakery bought sandwiches for dinner, and then I went to tour agency and tourism office. They are really friendly in the tourism office and knew me from yesterday. I think she even remembered my name.

16th April 2012 Ushuaia, Argentina

Well it was a very nice day again full of fresh air, beautiful scenery, some wildlife watching and a long walk. It started with getting up and going for breakfast. As usual I had trouble getting up. I had breakfast before getting a taxi to train station. Was a bit of a rush to get my ticket and then I got very confused. I thought they were saying I had to do the full round trip on the train all at once and not get off in the national park. So the guard ended up introducing me to a tour guide to see whether I wanted to join them. The tour guide suggested I might be better going alone so I could trek. She said you can decide on the train what you want to do. I must say how fantastic the staff was with me at the Fin Del Mundo train station. They were all very welcoming. The guard (lady) decided to keep me company on the trip on the way there. We stopped at a station before the national park so people could have a little walk. We then carried on to national park and I decided to stay with my original plan of going walking. I had maps plus bus times. Unfortunately as I was trying to work out what I was doing when I got there I didn't really give the train journey my full attention. I decided I would also get the train back as my ticket covered return (155 pesos).

When I arrived, I began looking at the map and trying to work out which road I should take. It was a bit of a problem. Everyone else was also struggling. Then a minibus came (the one from town) and we managed to get a lift on it down to a better place in the park. From there was a beautiful view of Ensenada bay and I had a quick look in the postcard shop. I began my walk along the coast and I was just trying to take a photo on timer when the boy who I had met yesterday on the boat trip (and also earlier on the train) was coming my way. He took a photo of me and asked whether he could join me. When I took a photo of him, a message came up in another language. I said oh it's come up in Japanese or something then I realised he probably wasn't Japanese. So I asked where he was from and found out he was from Thailand. I was glad of the company but also a little bit disappointed as I wanted to do more walks than just that one. I thought if I was with someone, I probably wouldn't get to do the other walks. He was quite a fast walker and also a good photographer but we still didn't make it in time for the other walks. The guide for length of walk was pretty accurate as I usually find they are not. We saw ducks, beautiful views of the coast and a load of woodpeckers. Woodpeckers are very hard I've found out to take a decent photo of. A bit of wood from one woodpecker fell down onto me when I was trying to take a photo of another one. At one point I did slip over- my stupid hiking boots but I manage to fall into a soft cushioned plant so I didn't get very wet knees or very muddy. A few times during the last part of the walk we had to climb over fallen tree trunks.

We then went in the visitor information centre and got some food (empananas and Fanta for me) before getting on the bus which took me back to train station (40 pesos). The boy from Thailand decided to stay on the bus I presume so I didn't get to properly say goodbye. I thought he was following me off the bus. I then had to wait a long time for train and it did begin to rain a little. I did begin to regret my decision of going back by train at this point as I was a bit concerned whether it would turn up. It did and the locomotive turned around. I said hello to the guard again and began the journey back. I appreciated the ride a lot more on the way back and the Autumn colours of the trees were beautiful. I did try to listen to commentary but it was a bit difficult as had noisy Brazilians in my coach. The Brazilians were really nice people though and I did end up sharing a taxi back with them back to town. Another guard was really nice to me as well when I got back asking whether I had enjoyed my day etc and talking about Haberton Estancia to me.

When I got back to the town the Brazilians wouldn't allow me to pay my share of the taxi and they had already given me a leaflet for a free hot chocolate. I then went in the Fin del Mundo museum and the government house and walked around them. I then went to a restaurant and had sirloin steak. I had to count my money in there to check I had enough money for the meal plus a taxi back. It was a little bit of a struggle and I knew I couldn't afford accompaniments to the steak. On saying that steak was very filling so I didn't really need anything else.

17th April 2012 Ushuaia, Argentina

Well I've been in Argentina and Chile today. Unfortunately I couldn't make the 9:00 bus to Tierra del Fuego National Park as I was clean out of money so I had to walk down to the city centre to the banks after breakfast before I could go anywhere. I did walk a different way into the town but it was quite pleasant. I took photographs over the harbour. I found the Malvinas plaza. Ushuaia is capital of the Malvinas. I also got to take photos of the penguin models wearing clothes in a shop but unfortunately I didn't go past the shop which is full of cuddly toys and nothing else. After getting money again which felt good I decided to walk up to the bus stop and sort out my buses to the National park. A woman asked me whether I was interested in going to National Park at 10:00. At first I was apprehensive as I didn't see that company going around the National Park yesterday. I wondered whether it was a scam but then realised that if there were a problem with any of the companies-the people in the tourist office would had said. It was the same price as well 85 pesos and I could use other minibuses for coming back. We picked up a couple from another hostel on the way and I was relieved not to be travelling alone. We stopped to pay the entrance to the National Park (another 85 pesos).

They got off at the train station and I was drove up to the beginning of the trail Hito XXIV. It was a 4.3 mile trip taking 3 hours. It was through woods along the Roca or Acigami Lake. Before I went I went into the campsite shop/restaurant bought some coke and used their facilities. It was more of an adventure than I planned. If I had known what it was like I probably wouldn't have attempted it alone. The first part was fine just walking through the woods next to the lake. I got to one part where I was unsure where the path went as there were loads of fallen branches and trees. I could also hear one of the trees creaking and groaning as it moved in the wind. I finally located the path by climbing over the fallen branches. I wasn't sure whether I should have turned back or not but I found other people walking solo coming the other way. I found lots of interesting human made bridges out of logs etc. One of the logs actually moved as I was walking across it. I then lost the path again and was scrambling among rocks then. I was beginning to think this is ridiculous and I will never find the border between Chile and Argentina. I am more likely to injure myself. I found the path again and then it went normal and pleasant for the last part. I found the border which was just a sign with a small branch on the ground. So I had one foot in Chile and one foot in Argentina. I then had both feet in Chile. I didn't trespass any further than that. Maybe they put the border 100m forward than what it is so it stops any curious people trespassing into Chile. I had some biscuits and coke there before beginning the walk back. At first I thought how the heck did I get lost on the way but then I got lost again climbing over fallen trees and branches. I crawled along two fallen tree trunks and then had to move through some prickly undergrowth before finding the path again. Just after this a women asked me how it was in Spanish so I explained that in the middle it was hard with fallen trees and rocks. It's possible but not easy. I got back to the information centre and I went in to ask whether it was possible to do the other walks before the bus at 5:00. I asked whether I should wait for the bus to arrive at 3 to get a lift down to the other area. I asked in Spanish and the women explained that I had time to walk it plus walk the walks I wanted.

So I began the walk down to Arias Port along the road stopping along the way to take photos of the little religious monument and the bridge. I raced down path 1 to see Paseo de La Isla (only 0.4 miles). Only saw 2 birds there even though it was supposed to be a good opportunity to watch water birds. I was then carried on with my quick walk along the road stopping off at the Laguna Verde lookout. This wasn't as peaceful as other parts of the park and it was easily accessible from a car so there was already a group there when I arrived. Even so it was very scenic and still reasonably peaceful. As I was walking it was also possible to stop further along the road for photo spots. I did have to move into the side when cars and buses came past but there wasn't much traffic there. I then walked between the two campsites to reach the Laguna Negra footpath (only 0.6 miles). There I managed to take a photo of a bird sitting on the signpost. It reminded me of my times at university learning the process of the formation of a peatbog. However the explanation boards were all in Spanish but it was a beautiful area with all the trees in Autumn colours. Here I set the camera on timer to get photos with the Autumn trees. I then raced down to the path for Mirador Lapataia (0.6 mile) and walked through the deciduous beech forest to reach the lookout of Lapataia Bay and then carried on down to the final of the path. I then raced back the other way down the path meeting the couple from the bus who said make sure you don't miss the bus.

I then went down the Del Turbal hike (1.2 miles). Half way down the path-it said don't go further-area under renovation (it was in Spanish). As it hadn't said anything at the beginning of hike, I had been told I could do it in the tourist information and I had told the person in the information centre for the park that I was going to do that walk. I carried on quickly through it. I then was slightly lost so I thought I'd better head back to where the bus was despite not managing to see the Castorera hike. However on the way on the road I saw the hike so I quickly went to do it (0.2 miles). There I saw the impact of the beavers on the forest and my do they do some damage. There I met the couple who I had met in the tourist office the other day and who had given me a piece of chocolate. They said they could always give me a lift back to Ushuaia but as it was my last walk and I had already paid for the bus back I took the bus. I wouldn't like to know-how far I've been walking today- walked pretty much all day from 10:45-5:00 having crackers and biscuits along the way. I think some of the distances I have put are only for the way there and for Mirador Lapataia I walked back the other way. Back at the bus stop I began talking to another bus company who would have given me a lift back to Ushuaia even though my ticket wasn't exactly valid for his mini-bus. However then I saw the other couple and I thought I'd better wait with them.

It took quite a while for our mini-bus to arrive but we then drove back to Ushuaia. I then walked to naval and prison museum. It was a fantastic museum but had lots to read. I first walked around all the model ships and their stories before walking around the prison section. Unfortunately I didn't have enough time for seeing Antarctica section and history section despite having been in there 2 hours. I hope to return tomorrow before my flight.

18th April 2012 Travelling back to Buenos Aires, Argentina

Well I didn't want to get up this morning and I did think shall I give the museum a miss. After having breakfast and paying I got a taxi to the naval museum. Unfortunately it was closed so I walked around the outside. It was rather disappointing that it was closed but I did see a lot of it last night. There wasn't time to hang around to see whether it opened so I passed my ticket onto someone else. I then went and claimed my free hot chocolate from the chocolate shop. Afterwards I walked down to taxi rank. I said maybe about the taxi driver waiting for me while I got my luggage from the hotel. However, he drove me all around Ushuaia in an indirect direction to my hotel so no way was I going to let him play the same game to take me to the airport. I said I would wait for the one the receptionist ordered for me. I had a bit of a chat to the receptionist in hotel in Spanish before getting taxi to the airport. It was nice and quick to get there but when I got there-they decided to weigh my hand luggage. It was 5kg overweight so they said you needed to change your stuff over to the bag you are checking in. This wouldn't have been a problem as there was room in my other bag (which makes a change) but my padlock had jammed so I couldn't get in it. I bet they thought I was lying when I said I couldn't get in my main bag but they let me off.

I was very lucky with the weather in Ushuaia as it only began to rain when I was leaving apart from the brief heavy shower on the day I arrived. At Buenos Aires airport I was trying to find out whether it was possible to get a shuttle to my hotel. I first asked information and he sent me down to another part of the airport. There the stalls for remises and shuttles were mainly empty. After asking various people I managed to find out that there were also stalls outside the airport. I couldn't get the shuttle to my hotel-only to Puerto Madero and then would have to get a taxi. Another person was also trying to get a remise or shuttle to the other airport. We had a bit of a conversation in Spanish and she asked me whether I would like to share a taxi.

I got to my hotel which was very nice in Palermo and talked to the person on reception that was Swiss. I was trying to find the restaurants that the receptionist recommended but I began to feel a bit like I would become a target for crime keep wandering around with a map around streets in the dark. Someone asked whether they could help me but I didn't like the look of him so I didn't get very close. I went into an Italian and outside it people were playing music. After ordering my food, sitting outside and observing I realised my waiter was drunk. He kept singing and I was waiting for him to begin dancing to Michael Jackson when a CD was playing but he didn't. I realised pretty much all the people were possibly drunk around me but it was a cheap, I think probably local place to be. Some other tourists did arrive after me. I had a pizza and coke before going to get a taxi. My foot did go in a slight gutter in road with water in it. When the waiter found out where I was going he said walk it so I did even though I was a bit anxious walking it but it was very close to my hotel-2 blocks 1 way and then 2 blocks the other way. A lot closer than I thought it was. When I got back I still couldn't get in my case so as I was so tired I went to bed.

19th April 2012 Buenos Aires, Argentina

After having breakfast and talking to the hotel staff I went up to the room to finish my last bit of packing. The good thing about not being able to get in my case was that I hadn't unpacked. I then took my case down to reception so he could destroy the padlock so I could get to clean clothes again. It didn't take too much twisting with the pliers to get in but I was also holding down the case.

I then walked through the parks to Recoleta. It was so nice to find good parts of Buenos Aires where I escaped the exhaust fumes of city. First I had to walk through where the city was busy and then I saw glimpses of a polo match before carrying on and finally sitting down by a lake. There I was looking at a map and a runner asked whether I needed help with directions. He said the best part of the parks was near Rosedal and he was certainly right-it was beautiful. However, I first had to get there and unfortunately I didn't watch where I was stepping. First I stepped in something with one foot but I managed to get the poo off quite quickly. A worker in the park began talking to me in Spanish but once I began to speak he said you are not from here in Spanish. Still he was quite friendly. Just after getting it off one foot I stepped on something with the other foot. I spent most of the day checking my shoes and trying to get it off rubbing my shoes on bridge, picking up sticks and scraping at my shoe, placed my shoes in puddles before finally taking it off and swishing the bottom of my shoe in Rosedal Lake. I don't know whether it was geese or dog poo but it certainly stunk.

I then went in the Japanese Gardens. The Japanese Gardens were nice but after seeing Rosedal for free having to pay for other gardens didn't feel quite right. I walked around taking photographs and at one point I was trying to take a photo across the lake. I thought I will just move behind a bush so the person taking the photograph the other way wouldn't have me in it. When I came around from the bush another person was in the way and then I ended up with a big woman in foreground after them so I didn't quite get the photo I had hoped for. I then walked down to the Planetarium before doing the long walk through to Recoleta. I stopped off at the cemetery on the way as I felt I hadn't appreciated it enough last time I visited. This time there were loads of cats around the graveyards and there was a bit of a catfight with squealing cats.

I then looked out for the bookshop "El Ateneo". I got rid of my scruffy 5 peso note in a corner shop for two chocolate bars. They wouldn't have taken it if I had anything else other than 100 pesos. I found "El Ateneo" and at first it looked so like other peoples photos that it was a bit of a let-down as I was so looking forward to seeing it. However the longer I stayed in there the more I appreciated it. It was spectacular. An old theatre full of bookshelves and the café on the stage. I had a tea up on the stage with water and a biscuit too. I then raced to Dimas apartment as I felt I should say goodbye. He wasn't there and I was quite relieved as I could only say hello and goodbye. I then walked back down Santa Fe and I was waiting to cross the Azcuenaga I saw Dimas walk up the other side. I ran up behind him to say goodbye and then I had to race to Pueyrredon subte. I always forget though that it is impossible to get anywhere in a rush in Buenos Aires due to the sheer number of people walking on the pavements. That was the other benefit of walking through the parks.

I got on the subte (underground) and the stop before I wanted to get off the subte stopped working. I then had to get a taxi to the hotel and I swear he drove me round in circles increasing the price on metre. However, it may have been my fault as maybe I got in the taxi on the wrong side of the road. I will give him the benefit of the doubt. I then went quickly in to ask what time I needed to book a taxi for (8:30-it was 7:30 and still I needed to get food). So I raced out struggling a little to find a restaurant serving early enough. Luckily the 2nd restaurant would serve me a pizza early so I watched the news while waiting for my pizza. I missed the hotel walking back so I arrived just as the taxi was drawing in. I rushed to the toilet and the hotel staff were fantastic again. The two males both taking my luggage out and helping me. The information centre was right up the other end of the bus station and I was panicking about making my bus in time. I asked someone official in the bus station and they sent me down to line 6. I had heard the hotel mention I was going from line 12. I asked some other passengers and they told me to go to information even though what I was trying to find out is what bus they were on. They were quite unhappy with me I think for asking them. I asked someone else and they said about row 20 so I walked along the buses and it was finally in line 30 something. I was so relieved to get on my bus and it set off after I arrived as they must have just been waiting for me. I wasn't late though.

On the bus we were served with cold food and then hot food. The cold food I took with me to have tomorrow. I went to sleep quite early while other passengers on the bus were watching Twilight.