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I arrived mid afternoon in Hanoi, Vietnam's beleagured capital to be instantly ripped off to the tune of $15. It was to be a sign of things to come. It was, i suppose, my fault because i'd only just arrived and didn't know the exchange rate. But it was probably more the driver of the shuttle bus from the airport who did indeed know the exchange rate and massively overcharged me when i decided to pay with the actual currency of the country and not dollars. not that im ranting.
Hanoi is brilliant in that its a disaster, motorbikes trying to knock you off your feet at every term, loads of red flags and communist posters everywhere with Russian artwork that makes everything look that much more well... communist.
The hostel i stayed in (incidently the only one in vietnam so its a good job i made some friends there!) was Hanoi Backpackers and quite good even though it was so enormous you rarely saw the same person twice and was definatley of the australian lets-just-get-wrecked-f***-sightseeing type ilk.
Went to see embalmed ex-leader Uncle Ho all dead. That was very exciting. he looked a bit creepy. i got hussled out cos my eyes were lingering on his little beard for a little too long.
The next day we went to Halong Bay. I was reading a book on the journey and didnt join in with the cool people talking about frazzles at the back of the bus but we were to become firm friends. The tour guide was a huge wally, Finnish, and very into his drinking. Halong bay is a beautiful bay full of different shaped islands made when dragons had a war above it. (or something). we stayed on a big wooden boat in rooms that provided soap and even plastic toothbrushes (im just demonstrating the luxury!) and we went to see some caves, did a bit of kayaking, where i had to do all the work.
Then were encouraged to 'go get wasted' by the tour guide.
we actually just had a nice civilised drink, made friends over a bit of the conchords and then headed back home the next day. home being hanoi.
then i went to sapa on an overnight train with a couple of girls i didnt like and a guy i did and spent the next three days being hassled to the bone by little hmong women all in traditional dress trying to make me buy their bulk-produced chinese s***e. i caved and bought a cushion cover i don't like.
sapa was amazing looking, all padi fiends and water buffalo but the obsessive nature of the sellers ruined it a bit for me and the homestay was nothing like the one i had in laos, it was all hot water and electricity and a pool table. which isnt really how i think most of the hmong hill tribe live in northern vietnam.
we got another overnight train home and arrived back at the hostel at 4am. i fell asleep on a sofa until breakfast and managed to escape the crew i had unintentionally picked up. later that day i head to hue (to connect to hoi an) on my first 'sleeper' bus. More of that next time.
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