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In this exciting episode of the life of Kim she gets her nails done, decides she likes Nowiegens and runs around a small Argentinian village on a quest to post wine home!
After the Amazon I got a horribly expensive flight down to the Pantanal. Actually, three flights that began at 12.30am and had me arrive at 10am. It was a cold night of air conditioning. I have no idea why hot countries think that in order to get your money´s worth from a flight/bus ride, you need to be chilled to refridgerator temperature. I didn´t bring my blankie on board and spent most of the night with my cardie wrapped over my head. Also, I lost my warm jumper and a pair of trews in Altar do Chão so im down to my last long sleeves. (First think of mine I´ve lost my the way, are you shocked!?). I have also been mocked by my list of protocal to perform before leaving any hostel (check in bathroom, have you left your phone carging, look under the bed...).
I arrived in Campo Grande and was accosted by what turned out to be quite an unpleasant man. He was a tour operator and offered to give me a life to his office as he was picking up a French couple who were going on his tour into the Pantanal. I went, and it became increasingly clear he assumed i would also be going on his tour. I was a bit wary and asked quite a lot of questions but the French said the prices were all the same and this one looked like one of the better ones so I decided that as it meant i could leave that day (and time was a-pressing) I should go for it. I handed over my Reals and was later to find out I could have handed over less. But such is hindsight.
The pantanal was brilliant, its the most amazing place, the mosquitoes just love living there. As soon as you get out of the bus they flock to welcome you, sampling your sweet tourist blood! I think my blood became 50% DEET by the end from my enless reapplication of Jungle Formular. (You getting the product placement, this blog is actually paid for by insect repellent.) The rooms were at a little lodge on the river and fairly mosquito free and i was sharing (ahem, being a third wheel) to an English couple called Cassie and Dave. They paid less than me. This made me quite cross.
We went floating down the river on tubes and saw Howler monkeys, Caimen (in the same river!!) a giant otter chowing on a pirana (very rare, apparently) and toucans. All in the first hour! no jaguar yet.
The next day was fine (can you tell ive been reading Iris Murdoch?) so we went on safari and saw coatils (racoons), alligators, monkeys, toucans, caimen, capiburas and a host of birds ive forgotten the names. it was like a zoo! adam would have bloody loved it. still no jaguar.
the next day was wet as wet but we went on the boat ride anyway searching for jaguar. we saw a rather damp capibura. no jaguar. the sun came out later and we went pirana fishing. i didnt catch one but we caught enough between us for dinner (and i think it was my positive energy that helped the others get theirs) and they actually tasted rather nice! not much meat on them though and i think its only silly tourists that actually eat them.
last day was a sunrise boatride which was very romantic and all the couples around me were enjoying it very much as i sat huddled on my steal seat alone. everyboday ahhhhhh.
then we headed home, had a massive argument in portuñol that ended up with me saving 50R and then i hopped on an overnight bus to Foz do Iguaçu where I awoke with mild frost bite and then immediately crossed to the Argentinian side of the boarder, Puerto Iguazu for some well deserved wine.
More of the positive ions next time.
love as always xxx
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