We enjoyed my birthday in Bangkok, spending the morning feeling good in the gym and spa of a nearby hotel, then venturing into one of the many busy shopping malls next door, buying some fantastic cheap shoes! Escaping the city streets in the evening, we headed up to the 64th floor of the state tower for a fabulous meal looking out over the bright lights, and drinks in the open air illuminated rooftop bar. It wasn't cheap but it was amazingly memorable. We ended up a little wobbly, so we thought it would be safer to be at street level, but then ended up being accosted by a tuk tuk driver who took us to back to our hotel via a ping pong / anything goes show, which was interesting to say the least, but not an experience I really want to repeat!

The next day at breakfast we caught a glimpse of the madness starting outside as people holstering enormous water pistols or just buckets of water, sprayed passers by; some of whom were completely helpless stuck in traffic in their tuk tuk! Later that day, we too would become victims, and decided that the only option was to fight back! All of this was supposedly in aid of the annual buddhist Songkran festival, but we failed to see how this had religious significance! We joined in all the same, venturing into one of the busiest areas around Koh San Road, where people pasted our faces with a flour sludge, then kindly sprayed us from every angle with ice cold water. Not a time for donning your best frock! A riotous evening ensued, followed by some sore heads and the continuation of the festival the next day, so we opted for the taxis and hibernated back in the gym!

We booked some bus tickets to get out of the city (big mistake - the worst journey of our trip so far!) and headed South to experience island life in Koh Tao, famous for it's diving and relaxed ambience. After a few stops overnight, and a final ferry, we arrived ready to sleep! We enjoyed some excellent diving, but failed to track down an elusive whale shark - you'd think they would be easy to spot at up to 18 metres long! In the evenings we enjoyed mixing with the tourists in some good bars and restaurants (they have every cuisine you could wish for - even cheddar cheese here, but the thai is not at all disappointing either!), and went for a night of bowling with our diving instructor which was good fun.

Most islands are fairly relaxed apparently (with the exception it seems, of not only full moon, but half, crescent, or just the fact there is a moon, parties!). We decided we would see what one such party might have to offer, so went on a two night trip to Koh Pha Ngan - a bigger island with not half the charm of Koh Tao. We weren't actually there for the main event, so found ourselves at a smaller one after an evening of thai boxing, including watching Emma from England visciously beat up a tiny thai woman.

The party, set in a forest clearing, blasted out music from the DJ box, and was decorated with flourescent displays in the trees, but sadly the atmosphere was lacking due to the poor turnout, so obviously if a party is what you're after, it is better to be there at full moon rather than one of the other events trying to make some money from all the short-term tourists. We headed back, and had an early start to go back to Koh Tao. Eentually had to leave the seaside and this time boarded a sleeper train back to Bangkok - a far more pleasant way to travel!