Swings and roundabouts are in constant motion in the world of international travel. We arrived at Siem Reap airport at about 2.30 pm - no took took this time - the manager of the hotel drove us in the large and comfy company 4WD. The airport was in the process of being swamped by multiple coachloads of Chinese tourists who then went on to play dodgems with the luggage trollies. We waited about 20 minutes for check-in to open then were up first and had exit row seats allocation - by recent standards it was going to be a ‘long’ flight at 1 hour 30 minutes. The plane was only half full and we actually left 20 minutes early - wow! We’re not sure of Vietnam Airlines food/time ratio - but since the flight was over an hour there was a light meal of a sandwich, crunchy snacks and an apple - which is a heck of a lot better than ‘Coke or Water’ from our recent 45 minute flights. We were out of the plane snappily and even from Row 28 we managed to be 2nd in the queue for ‘Visa on Arrival’ processing - what can we say there was a sunset to photograph, there was confusion and we also had downloaded unofficial copies of the application form, had them printed in Cambodia and had our forms / photos and US$62 ready to go. Prior preparation and all that jazz... There was always the chance they’d want the official form that was getting handed out - but no, the scanned copy, filled out and ready to go was fine. Out the door via the taxi ticket stand and we were in downtown Luang Prabang in no time. Our guesthouse/cafe was on the peninsula created by the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and in a particularly groovy part of town - albeit a small town - only 5 minutes gentle dawdle from the colourful and relaxed Night Market.

But first - the cab had to take a run around the block as he’d driven past our place the first time - because the cafe was shut (and the guesthouse entrance is just down a side alley next door). So we arrived and thought finally, after 6 years of full time travelling, the scam-artists prophecy has come true. We went to the door however and knocked very loudly and a girl let us in and gave us a key and we climbed some lethally steep stairs to the second floor to find the room was actually not that bad for US$19 per night (with breakfast). Nothing in Asia is quiet and earplugs and a mask have become our compulsory sleep accoutrements - sometimes with a sleeping pill - but this room at least had a quiet air conditioner - mercy of mercies. We say the scam-artists prophecy has come true because invariably if someone strikes up a conversation - in Morocoo in particular - it will be to say “your Riad has burned down / gone out of business / is closed... but it just so happens my brother / uncle / father owns a much better one... perhaps I can take you there”. No such luck - even this time, despite looking closed... they were more or less open for business.

We stowed the gear, left the air-con on ‘arctic’ and nipped downstairs for dinner. Due to the ‘closed for no apparent reason’ status of our own cafe, we went next door and had a good dinner accompanied of course by the ubiquitous fruit shake - a steal at 10,000 Lao Kip - about A$1.60 each. Our favourite combo so far? Banana+Mango+Pineapple. Dinner done and dusted we headed to the Night Market and shops for the compulsory acquisition of a patch/badge for our bags and postcards. Due to the heft of the bags - not a lot of purchasing is going on and we’ve both got some clothes on their last legs that will eventually call it a day. I have 3 pieces in particular that are of the consistency of woven cobwebs and being held together by patches and mends. That’ll be a good 600 grams out of my bag when they eventually go to ‘Hardie-Clothes-Heaven’ in the sky. Eventually - to bed.

It’s not like we like setting an alarm. After the two ‘stupid-o’clock’ days getting up early in Siem Reap - 4 am and 5.15 am... we’re against alarms on general principle. However when breakfast is on from 7 am until 9 am... we figured it behooved us to err on the side of caution with the alarm at 8 am. We trundled downstairs to find the cafe bustling. Not efficient mind you and not a lot of English - but pictures and gestures go a long way and breakfast, she happened in spite of herself.

Luang Prabang is apparently UNESCO listed (though it’s starting to feel like just about everywhere and everything is). It’s the French Colonial architecture that does it apparently. So we took a self-guided walk around the peninsula, enjoyed the morning ‘wet’ market - though it all smelled frightfully gourmet, then walked along the Mekong riverside. Only declined a boat ride about 50 times. Not as though we need a one hour cruise when we’re about to head off for 2 days of cruising. We reached the park overlooking the confluence of the two rivers - gorgeous spot (pictured). Took a load off our feet and relased in the shade. Then did a u-turn and continued along the far side of the peninsula, to arrive back at the guest-house at a very reasonable time for lunch and icy, fruity fruit shakes. We’re glad that we’re only here for the 2 nights because any more than that we’d be down at the tour operator offices - booking trips to see elephants, local whiskey, buddha caves, waterfalls etc etc. Had a snooze. Nothing like a snooze in a UNESCO listed town to really let you know you’re enjoying life.

Our final (of 2) evenings in Luang Prabang was exciting because a massive storm came over and there was incredible forked lightening to be seen - which we enjoyed from a little bar during happy our. The beer tour of SE Asia continues and we can confirm that the beer in Laos, ‘Laos Beer’, is perfectly drinkable. The torrential rain put a dampener on the night market though and they closed early. We browsed the shops, did our final preparations for the morning and had a quick chat with the tour company rep about pick up time... 6.30 am. Positively late by recent standards. Still had the alarm set for 5.45 am. Yay. Mekong cruising, Laos style, here we come.