Lake Titicaca spreads more like a sea than a lake, straddling the border between Peru and Bolivia. It sits in the Andes mountain range at a moderate 3800 m above sea level; so from the highest accommodations in our trip to date, we made excursions into the magical peace blanketing this lake. The overwhelming vibe is tranquility. Whilst the freezing cold lake stretches on for hundreds of kilometres, it is more like the still water expected of a lake. Our Peruvian ferry captain was the epitome of this vibe: as the boat crawled on he would sit at the helm, bright face beaming under the intense sun with a smile that was set like all his dreams had come true at once.

There are many islands on the lake, natural and artificial. Hidden amongst the reeds can be found man-made islands that literally float on the lake. Being made of reeds, the occasional wave helps these islands conjure the feeling that one is walking on a water bed. The people living there build houses of reeds, sleep on beds of reeds, make boats of reeds, and even eat the reeds... Monotonous perhaps, but an environment that fills its people with zen.

The natural islands have a distinct charm of their own: peace in all its purity. Taquile Island has a tradition of textile weaving preserved since Inca times; a cultural treasure that is world heritage listed. All the island's inhabitants learn how to weave as they learn how to talk. And they are very proud of their shy and peace-loving ways. The community has a single shared market and restaurant serviced by a family rostering system and dogs are prohibited on the island since they say there is no need for fearing theft or violence. And truly, there is no doubt of that when you are there.

The Island of the Sun has a similarly hospitable and inwardly content population. Known as the birthplace of the Incas, this island has peninsulas at each of its corners that offer spectacular sunset views over the lake with blue bays that sparkle in the bright sun. I had simple but rewarding conversations with the locals, who proved to be very tolerant of my broken Spanish. The real treat on this island, though, were the ridge top walks from one end to the other that parade the stunning geography of this timeless place.

Our experiences in the towns off the lake were far less exciting. However, in these places I did have quite some success with my taste buds. A very popular Peruvian dish is cerviche, a salad of raw fish, red onion and chili, dressed in a lemon/lime juice. And what better place to have it than next to a lake with fresh trout and kingfish. The flavour is intense, the spiciness more so; the only way to finish is by interspersing mouthfuls of the ever-popular potato to cool the palette. And then in this funky reggae bar with seats and tables made of sliced gum tree (the hardy eucalypt has become a pest here) I ate the perfect chicken: grilled fillet covered with a cheesy white sauce containing pieces of mushroom, nuts and sliced peaches. Classy.

La Paz and the Uyuni salt flats I will save as treats for next time...