The track from Potosi to Uyuni was as scenic as it was riddled with potholes. After 6hours of ascending and descending mountain roads with stunning views and sheer drop offs, we descended a final pass and on the horizon in the middle of the brown and dusty desert Uyuni slowly dissolved into sight. From a distance, as the only thing in sight, it had the appearance of an oasis. The further you are away from Uyuni the less horrendous it looks. As we drew nearer, a blustery, sand swept collection of streets and dilapidated buildings greeted us. Our hotel, one of the only few multistoried buildings in town was brilliantly located next to an army base. Signs inside the hotel warned not to enter the streets whilst the army were parading and that if you were in the street at 8am when the national anthem is played, you must remove your hat and stand to attention. The military theme was certainly suitable. Our group was in agreement that we probably wouldn`t ever have to visit Iraq as the ambience of Uyuni would probably be very similar. Rubbish was everywhere, dogs outnumbered people and besides from a street with a market and some restaurants, the place could certainly be described as godforsaken. Perhaps I am being a little harsh as building a beautiful town in the middle of one of the worlds driest deserts, hours from anywhere else experiencing one of the most extreme climates on the planet, is probably quite difficult. It was a dump, however its proximity to some of the worlds most enduring and unforgettable scenery and landscapes makes it well worth putting up with.We had come to Uyuni to begin a 3 day expedition into the Salar De Uyuni (The worlds largest Salt Flat) and the Bolivian desert. We had arrived in Uyuni late afternoon and spent our first night there eating pizza and preparing for the next day. We would spend the next few days crossing the desert in a convoy of 3 4x4s and staying in very basic accommodation. We were warned that at night the temperatures could drop as low as minus 30 degrees centigrade and that in the day the sun would almost certainly burn us without the application of sunscreen. We awoke early and began loading our gear for the next 3 days into our jeeps. The jeeps were stocked with everything we would need, water, cooking equipment and we even had a chef with us. From Uyuni it would be about an hours drive until we entered the Salar. We stopped off briefly for some last minute snacks and the chance to purchase any extra layers of clothing.To describe the Salar as otherworldly doesn`t quite do it justice. A vast expanse of flat blinding whiteness with nothing breaking the horizon in any direction is only a simplification. The Salar used to be a salt lagoon until the water evaporated leaving just the thick layers of salt below. Besides being a geographical wonder and a tourist draw, locals also mine the salt in the most basic of ways. Using a pick axe and shovel they pile it in short mounds. These miners tend to be active on the boarders of the flats, closest to Uyuni and this was the first thing we saw on exchanging the dusty desert surface for crystalline whiteness. Looking in any direction there are only ever two colours really present. The reflective white of the salt and the blue of the sky. Nature often has the power and ability to remind us of our insignificant we really are, and the Salar is a fantastic example.Driving past the small collection of miners we continued a little further until a small building perforated the white horizon. It used to be the only hotel in the Salar and was constructed entirely out of salt. However it was forced to close for environmental reasons relating to the disposal of waste and so is now a brief stop on the tourist circuit. Interesting and novel as it was, the greatest thing about the place was the view of nothing out of the bedroom windows.Continuing further across this the sterile landscape, large mountains appeared in the distance flanking the flats and providing a fantastic contrast. We were to stop for lunch and photography on Cactus Island. After the lake dried up, this island was one of the only things left. It is one of the only places in the Salar with anything green, brown and not white. Ultimately nothing more than a scraggy piece of rock with some interesting cacti, due to its uniqueness, it rises majestically out of the salt and takes centre stage. Before lunch we had time to begin taking our photos. With the never ending stretches of flat whiteness, all perspective is completely lost. This allows for some fantastic and amusing photos. If you place an object close to the camera, and stand directly behind it, some way away, it looks as though the small object, (a football, lightbulb or bottle for example) is of gargantuan proportions whilst the person equates to nothing larger than an ant. To truly understand what I am talking about check out the pictures, they are great fun. We spent a good 45minutes trying out various poses and taking numerous photos before having taking our lunch. After lunch we went for a half hour walk on the island, in amongst the cactus, it gave a somewhat even more impressive perspective of the salt flats stretching into the distance. The sun was absolutely brutal and the altitude at over 4,000metres made walking somewhat difficult. Being unable to walk with ease, we naturally concluded to have a football match before leaving. After finishing the walk we came back down to the salt for some more amusing photos and tomfoolery. One of the girls on our trip was celebrating her twentieth birthday so we took a special photo for that. Our football match didn`t materialise but we had a kick about with our drivers for a bit, as the temperature began to drop.Whilst most groups leave not long after lunch, we were lucky enough to persuade our drivers to stay until sunset. As the sun began to sink behind the mountains in the distance the temperature dropped dramatically. The reflection of the light on the salt flats was stunning and it changed the whole characteristics of the landscape within minutes. Better still, we were the only group there, and the some clouds had appeared allowing the sun to display a plethora or reds and oranges to contrast against the whiteness. Almost every aspect of the salt flats was accentuated in this light. The cracks in the ground became more obvious. We took some more pictures and took in the moment as best we could. With the sun sinking rapidly it was only a matter of time before we would have to leave this magical landscape. Like a game of football on a late summers evening, playing in rapidly fading light until you can no longer see the ball, we stayed as long we could before getting back into the jeeps. We drove in across the flats in the dark (with headlights on). Illumination was also provided by the extremely bright moon and stars. The presence of the moon was useful as it reminded us we were still on earth. I can only imagine that the Salar is the closest thing to a lunar landscape on earth, and to be honest, I think it is probably that bit more stunning. After another hour or so, our back wheels finally left the salt and reverberated against the loose dusty desert surface. Buoyed by an absolutely unforgettable day, the mood at dinner was slightly strange. We would be spending the next few days driving through the desert and almost everyone was in agreement that they would prefer to spend the time back in the salt flats. Such was the power and beauty of the place, no one really wanted to leave at all. The stars beamed like fireflies in the night sky, and countless shooting stars were spotted. It was a fantastic end to a truly memorable day. We passed a cold, though not unbearable night, with the hope that tomorrow would provide as amazing a day, though cynically we all had our doubts.Awoken around 5am, we were tired and cold. The prospect of driving through desert didn`t really appeal. We had been spoilt with so much of it over the last few days and months. We boarded our jeeps in a sloth like manner and drove for quite a while. As the light began to illuminate the landscape, our cynicism was shown to be misplaced. A desert it was, but it certainly wasn`t the flat empty whiteness of the previous day. Mountains and volcanoes dominated the mornings drive. Our lunch would be spent at our first Laguna (we would be spotting many of them over the next couple of days) of the day, Laguna Verde. The lagoons that exist in the desert, all possess different qualities. Almost all of them are flanked by a mountain or volcano and as the bodies of water contain different minerals, they all have a different tint. Laguna Verde, had an amazing green glow. With mountains on either side, reflecting their image onto the tranquil waters, it was a fantastic spot for lunch. Flamingos busied themselves in the reflections of the mountains and yet again it was another unforgettable picture. We had lunch and walked along the shoreline for a bit amongst wild windswept grass and shrubs before continuing to the next Laguna. The day passed in this fashion stopping at two more fantastic Lagunas and passing more Volcanoes (some of which were higher than 6,000m, forming the border with Chile. Our accommodation for that night was spent on the shore of another beautiful lagoon, which had a reddish glow. As sun was setting we climbed a small trail to a viewpoint above the water (a hard task at over 4,000m). The sun set behind the mountains yet again, and but this time the temperature truly began to bite. The short walk back to the dorms, wasn`t the most pleasant as an icy bitter wind buffeted every inch of my exposed face. When we finally arrived back, we were absolutely frozen and it took about a half hour to regain normal temperature, with the help of some coca tea. We knew we would be in for a tough night, and as dinner was served, water dripped from the ceiling above us. There was no leak, it was condensation as the building we were in was (though still cold) infinitely warmer than the rapidly decreasing temperature outside. Again the stars were out to provide a beautiful spectacle but no one dared venture into the cold to watch them, and so we were content at gazing through the window. Than night unfortunately one of the girls from our trip accidentally drunk what she thought was bottled water, but was actually tap water and spent the rest of the evening and the next few days in immense discomfort.The next morning, again arising very early, was bitterly cold, and the 30 second dash from building to the jeeps was a challenge. Again as the sun illuminated the landscape, despite being cold and exhausted, we knew we would be privileged enough to experience another fantastic day. If the day spent on the Salar had been akin to the moon, this day would be spent on Mars. The rolling mounds of orange and red were as otherworldly as the sterile and barren planes of white salt. Driving through a dusty red desert, we stopped first at some geysers. Bubbling pools of sulphur every so often spewed steam into the air, and with the sandy orange backdrop, again it felt a long way away from planet earth. We continued a little further and reached our breakfast stop, some natural thermal pools with a stunning landscape behind them. After debating whether to enter the pools quite carefully (with the temperature no higher than zero, stripping down into swimming shorts was a tough decision), I went for it. The relief and sudden extreme shift in temperature as you enter the pool is a very strange sensation. My body began to acclimatise and looking across volcanic planes behind the pools, I was thoroughly pleased with my decision to enter. After spending some time in the pools, it began to get a little cold. So I decided to get out the pool and run around in the freezing cold for a bit, until I got really cold so as I could re enter and feel the heat again. It was a fantastic idea, until in my eagerness to re enter the pool, I slipped on some of the rocks which form the steps and gashed my knee. Not thinking anything of it I stayed in the pool and enjoyed the waters some more. On exiting the pool for breakfast, the extent of my stupidity was revealed. Blood was running down my knee and a lovely wound was present. Don´t worry I am fine now, and it gave me a chance to use the medical kit I had been carrying and not using for three months. As I was seeing to my leg, some Israeli soldiers saw and came over with a military style medical / field hospital kit. Explaining that they were all trained medics they took it upon them to patch up my knee. I was very grateful and it was quite a funny experience looking back on it. Thus I have included it, Mum and would rather not be quizzed about it in your next email!Continuing from the hot springs we passed through a landscape called the Salvador Dali Valley. Orange and Red fine sand desert, rising to form a collection of hills, strangely populated with large boulders. Where they came from I don`t know, but it was certainly a very strange landscape. Continuing we visited another stunning lagoon, this time at over 5,000m and then began our long journey back to Uyuni. On the way, apart from admiring some more stunning scenery, we passed various mineral mines, and stopped at one final to marvel at another reddish body of water nestled beneath mountains. As we neared Uyuni we stopped off in a landscape called the valley of the moon. Strange formations of rocks rose up from nowhere, creating yet again the impression of somewhere completely foreign to earth. Arriving in Uyuni, we had some dinner, tried to clean ourselves up a little after 3 days of not showering, and boarded our overnight train to La Paz. Exhausted we sunk into the uncomfortable upholstery of a Bolivian train, and slept almost the entire journey.The Salt Flats, the desert and lagoons, was without doubt a highlight of the whole trip so far. Considering the vast amount of different scenery we have been lucky enough to experience, I think this is high praise indeed. It sits with Torres Del Paine as one of the most special places on this planet in my opinion. Whilst Bolivia, is difficult to get around, slightly lacks in true tourist infrastructure and can at times be very frustrating, those 3 days were worth every moment of hassle and more. I think that Richard Branson should abandon moves to send tourists into space and focus on the Salar. I can`t imagine that the moon or even mars could have been any better!