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J & J in the J
I really didn't think the body could hold enough water to enable rivers of sweat to run from every pore simultaneously until I walked around the jungle in the Danum Valley. And I've been to Darwin in the wet season.***********************
After leaving Sandakan we drove to Lahad Datu where we picked up our transfer to the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, deep in primary rainforest. The trip involved 30 mins on normal road, then 2 hrs or 77km on gravel road to a wonderful oasis of comfort nestling in a clearing in a curve of the Danum river. It's owned by the government and hopes to bring cash and employment to locals by emptying tourists pockets so that not everyone relies on the palm oil industry.**********************************
You go there to see creatures. Orang-utan's, pygmy elephants and rare cats are the big prizes but there are also gibbons, macaques, red-leaf monkeys, birds, spiders, frogs, snakes, flying lemurs, views, and heat. We spent 3 days and two nights alternating between walking, hoping our clothes would dry off enough not to feel too horrible before the next walk, eating and sitting in our outdoor bath, drinking G&T and listening to the jungle.************************
The highlight was seeing wild orang-utans: two juveniles one day then a mother and child the next. The first two were relatively close but the second managed to stay reasonably well hidden in the canopy most of the time. It felt very special to see these 'men of the forest' in their natural environment. It's not just because some of the people I know make these ginger hairy apes seem familiar; I think it's the way they use their hands, the way they look and interact with each other and the fact we know just how intelligent they are. They're not intelligent enough to fight us humans though. I really do hope we all have the chance to see them in the wild in the future but time may be running out. *****************************************
Flying lemurs are odd looking things. Imagine a very hungry squirrel stuffed into a fleshy ginger sack and you are not too far away. They are all wide eyes, bone and random skin. Seeing them flying would be great. Watching them sit still or move a few feet on a tree very slowly loses attraction rather quickly. **************************
The low point was probably the night drive. About 6 of us sat on the open back of an small truck with guide sitting on a chair on top of the cab with a very high powered torch. We drove around for about an hour spotting animals by catching the reflections of their eyes. Rather like lamping. Poor creatures. One minute they are enjoying a late night snack and the next they are illuminated in a search light, fixed by terror, and all to enhance our experience with nature.............****************************
The other highlight for me was a swim in the Jacuzzi Pool which is a lovely, cool, natural pool at the base of a waterfall deep in the jungle. After a very, very hot walk jumping in was one of the best feelings imaginable. A slight downside Is that there are fish in it that love nibbling on feet and legs. Whilst they are harmless, it gives you a bit of a start every time.***************************
Besides the doing stuff bit, the lodge itself is rather great. Despite being so remote the food was extremely good and the only thing not included was booze and that was very very reasonable with cocktails costing only $6 each. Hurrah. It's a shame we were so tired by the end of each day we went straight to bed after the night activities.******************************
Our only disappointment was that on day two Jodie's walking boots fell apart and on day three Jodie's trainers disappeared. We don't think anybody nicked them, rather that, in a episode of f***wittery, someone picked them up (along with very smelly socks and anti-leech socks) and packed them by accident. We got some satisfaction in knowing that at some point in the next day or so, said f***wit will open their bags to find that the foulest smelling footwear in the universe has impregnated all their belongings with a semi permanent guff that will ensure they will forever sit alone. ****************************
A great place to visit and if you are out this way, sell a kidney and pay the place a visit. *************************************
We spent the next couple of days in KK. The islands off the city are worth a visit but the town has little going for it. The sea is filthy, the working port ensures the seas edge smells of fish and food is rather dull. We were able to find J a new pair of walking boots to help her get up the big hill but we were slightly worried about the thought of a new pair of boots combined with a challenging walk but, if the worst came to the worst, I could always leave her on the mountainside.
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