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'Once a year go somewhere you have never been before.' (Dalai Lama)
This is certainly true of this year.
The decision to come to Italy and France was an extremely good idea and I have to say we have rather fallen in love with both. Our hope was that we follow the sun and to our surprise, besides a few days, the sun has stayed with us. The season in the south of Italy was very much coming to a close and I think we thought it might all be over, but as we travelled north we found the sun kept on shining and we realised how lucky we were. The aim was to go to as many places that we hadn't visited before - I definitely think we have achieved this.
The Italians way of life and the friendliness of the people has made it such an inviting place to stay. Alas, our Italian has not improved but we would happily come again, especially at this time of year. It would be very easy to immerse yourself in their way of life - they celebrate every festival and use it as an excuse to just have a great time. When we were near Grosseto, which is just a stunning area with so much to see, we went to Arcidosso, to the chestnut festival which went on over three weekends. When we went the weather was absolutely glorious -the local stalls selling everything in season, from cheeses, to vegetables, hams, sausages and of course chestnuts. Everyone local was selling anything local. Wood carvings to jewellery. While the local folk wore padded jackets, scarves and sunglasses they were amused to see us dressed for summer.
While in both Italy and France, I thought , rather naively, that we would see the harvesting of the grapes and the olives, but I was wrong. I imagined that we would see 'hundreds' of pickers at work in the vineyard and in the olive groves. There were miles and miles of both vineyards and groves laden with their ripe harvest, just waiting for the moment when they are ready to be picked.
When we travelled from the north to the south neither had been picked. On our return the work had been done. It was as if, invisible, magical fairies had cleared the harvest, starting with the grapes and then moving onto the olives.
In the south, quite a number of the olive trees are extremely old and their girth is enormous. The cold press olives, the top olives, are picked by teams of six - specialised pickers who work as a team and take two weeks to pick a grove. We saw this happen twice, it was slow and labour intensive and didn't seem very productive when you consider the number of trees there were. The nets are laid on the ground and then use an contraption that has a number of girating metal spokes, that are used to dislodge the olives. The nets are gathered and the olives are released from the nets, it's quite back breaking but I can only assume that these specialists are paid alot of money, but the logistics of numbers of 'specialist' v 'trees' doesn't seem to add up, still a bit of a mystery I'm afraid.
Italians quite like a bit of foraging and autumn seems to be the time - you see folk picking various flowers and greenery that is on the side of the road, we presumed they then sold it to ........ who knows or maybe it was personal use.
Apparently most villages have a 'Mushroom Doctor' who certifies that the funghi is eatable and won't kill you. I know we have these in England as well.
I have to mention, Umbrella girls, as we called them. They are all over Italy, at all times of day. They are found on 'slip roads' just off the motorway. Scantily dressed in bright, bold colours, with matching high heels, always holding an umbrella to protect them from the sun. They are perched on their white plastic chairs, gesturing to passing cars to stop. Every time we saw them we wondered how they got themselves in this situation, what other options were there. The majority were quite beautiful, their hair and makeup striking - clearly they had to make choices.
The happiest was a strinkingly beautiful girl, girating on a pole and dressed in the most stunning 'Wonder Woman ' outfit in Verona. Conversely, the saddest girl, was in Trani, under the motorway bridge she had positioned her chair in a pile of rubbish -purple eye shadow smeared on her eyes with the most melancholy eyes you ever did see. I felt like running back and giving her money.
The highlights of our trip and our recommendation to future travellers are as follows:
Portovenere and a boat trip to Le Cinque Terre - Manarola, Vernazza, Monterosso and Riomaggiore, these towns, which are striking by their pastels shades, are built on the side of steep rocks, perched and thriving, offering their own individual style ; these can be accessed by train; although in the height of the season, I can only imagine that the whole area is jammed. On our visit the weather was just glorious.
As we drove closer and closr to France, we loved our final taste of Italy - San Remo, it's clearly where the wealthy leave their 'boats' over the winter, it's a jammed packed 'boat park' of the most exclusive and expensive you can buy.
A couple of days in Bordrighera and a trip to Ventimiglia market, so many bargains!!!!!!
To our delight the end of October in the Riveria was just terrific. The weather was just gorgeous, far better than we could have ever imagined. The beaches were packed with children playing in the sand, the young and the old 'sun worshippers', with their well tanned bodies still keen to catch just a few more rays.
Jeff always had fond memories of La Lavendou, - the reason topless stunning beauties -'beignet pomme' sellers who, some 40 years ago, walked up and down the beach, no such luck when we were there but a few 'topless attractions' of 'various ages.......... maybe!!!! A great place to visit.
The end of October is a celebration of the end of the season, prior to many resorts shutting for the winter. Le Braderiere in St Tropez was the greatest sale (every shop 50% + off) - under the azure sky, the rich, famous and not so famous all rush to find a bargain - everywhere has reductions. It truly is spectacular, well worth saving for - I have never seen such genuine bargains.
We had to park a couple of miles outside and walk, but the day was so lovely it didn't matter. Just the most brilliant experience. Perhaps it was the weather, the place, the boats moored in the port , the chic restaurants buzzing and the atmoshere. The whole day was incredible.
Our favourite place was Cavaliare Sur Mer - we stayed for a few days and really felt we could have stayed for a few months. I think we will return again in the future, especially at this time of the year.
Travel is the only thing that you can buy that makes you richer.' ( Unknown)
That is what has been so wonderful about this experience, instead of just doing a bit of research and opting for two weeks, we have been able to see many places, some have far exceeded our expectation, while others have just shone out as 'the place we have been looking for.' This whole experience has made us far richer in our knowledge of what places have to offer.
I have to say that with the exception of a couple of shockers' we have been lucky with our accomodation in both Italy and France., I liked to think that I can 'spot a good one' now. We have truly found some absolute gems.
Along the way we have met so many people, in Trani (S. Italy). Billy De Vito ran our accomodation, he didn't look like Danny! He had the most engaging personality, His office appeared to be the local bar and it was great being in his company. Just one of those characters you could easily spend time with and he knew everything and everyone. Although we only stayed a few days, I feel that if we wanted to return he could 'sort' anything out.
We stayed one night in Arles, to be honest it was a one night stop over and it was a 'bargain' - we didn't expect alot. The apartment was on a farm; as we passed through the 'barn like door' and up the steep, narrow stairs, I could almost hear Jeff thinking, 'Oh no!'
Well as we have learned all through this year, sometimes you can be wrong. It was just lovely and Corrinne, who was about my age, had lived on the farm forever but had only been open for a few months. ( We seemed to find quite a few places where they had only recently opened.) She was so welcoming and genuine, couldn't speak a word of English, but you some how understood every word. The farm was run by her sons, not sure where the husband was but obviously she had decided to diversify. Her new venture was clearly a huge success. If ever you are in the area.....................
Just as we left next morning we watched a lamb being born.
In St Girons en route to St Jean de Luz, we stayed in converted house, I wasn't really sure of my choice, but it turned out to be ideal. It was steeped in history and had taken five years to lovingly restore. Galina, who appeared to be a rather introverted chap, turned out to be an artist, a chef and an interior designer, with an accute attention for detail. Again appearances can be so deceptive.
Waking up to the sun over the foothills of the Pyrennes and a scrummy homemade breakfast, with the most delicious conserves you have ever tasted. It was a perfect way to start the day.
Then we moved onto St Jean de Luz, very beautiful and we visited San Sebastian in Spain, so another country we have dipped into in our travels. It has the best tapas you have ever tasted.
Currently we are in IIe de Re, which I have to say is just beautiful you can see why the light is an inspiration for so many artists. I sailed here with my parents and sister, some 43 years ago and then again a few years ago, when I had an incidence on the bridge with a passing cyclist. This time we just cycled the Island, under the clear, blue sky. It is a self sufficient island that produces a rich harvest of oysters, mussels and sel de fleur. It has beautiful beaches and is really just perfect.
So our return date is 16th November - a few more places to visit including being on the Normandy beaches on 11th and then home via Cap Gris Nez.
Take care everyone - thank you for reading and being part of our adventure,
- comments
Dianne Thank you for your great blogs Safe journey home Love D&R
J&A What an adventure you have had! Safe journey home. Looking forward to meeting up with you both soon. X
Steve Thanks Jackie for all of your comments and observations. I have really enjoyed reading about your travels. Fantastic. Hope to see you both soon.
Karen Your travels in Europe sound fabulous - enjoy your last few days and have a safe journey home! Love Karen S