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Tuesday 30 Oct - The start of the trek from Lukla Airport to Monjo (both 2840m)
What a day! We started our day uber early to catch the first flight of the day to Lukla. The airport was mental and security was a complete joke. The metal detector was not even plugged into the wall and we were 'frisked' by what can only be described as magic x-ray hands so we could have smuggled anything in!
I was really nervous about the flight due to the fatalities and the fact that Lukla has been rated the world's most dangerous runway! However, the flight went really smoothly and I managed to get a good seat for the mountain views. The landing however was mental. The runway was super short and ends in a big fat stone wall. The only way that the planes can land safely is because the runway is on such a gradient that the planes can use this to slow down.
The trek was long and hot between the airport and the village of Monjo but we did squeeze in plenty of leisurely breaks and took in the scenery. We were still in the foothills here and it looked exactly like looking up at the Mettlehorn from Zermatt valley base. The trek led us through lots of tiny villages and because the main season has ended there was a greater number of yaks and ponies than people luckily. Although, this didn't stop one of our team being attacked by a yak whose horn tore through his t-shirt and (thankfully!) only grazed his skin. The route is also littered with prayer wheels and mani stones all of which must be turned in a clockwise direction or walked around clockwise for good luck with slowed the process down somewhat.
Wednesday 31 Oct - Monjo 2840m to Khumjung 3600m
Right now, as I write this I am laying in a comfy bed looking out of the window at Amadablam in all her glory from our en-suite room (not actually as glamorous as it sounds....) It is pretty cold up here but it is a great feeling to know that we have really started now! The trek up to this point was gorgeous, winding its way through dense pine forests with roaring rivers running through the middle. It was hard going as we got higher but before I knew it we were at the Everest viewpoint looking at the tallest point of earth. I didn't get any magical excitement seeing it which was a little sad but I just can't muster the energy to think about something that crazy right now.
It was a pretty steep climb from there to the legendary Namche Bazar town but soon we were in the hustle and bustle (and stink!) of trekkers and climbers and it was very exciting. Just beyond the town we managed to get out first view of Amadablam and from here she looks HUUGE, impossibly steep and almost unclimable. What the hell have I started??? Still, one day at a time....
Thursday 1 Nov - Amadablam View Hotel, Khumjung 3585m
Unfortunately altitude has already started to give me a bit of a beating and in conjunction with the cold shower I took last night I am now suffering with a massive head cold snotty nose. Staying in bed, feeling like poo was the best answer today as the rest of the team left for a trek to a local monastery and school but I am stuck here....
Friday 2 Nov - Khumjung 3585m to Pingboche 3989m
After 2 awesome nights at Tashi's (who I want to kidnap and bring home) we set of for the final leg of the journey along the main trail. It was a much tougher route than I expected because we had a 400m steep drop initially and it was also really humid. A quick stop for lunch in Tengboche next to the old monastery and a few cups of tea later we gentle plodded into Pingboche and the start of freezing conditions. The lodge was pretty basic with walls made from bare plywood with outdoor sinks that didn't drain and then consequently froze overnight. However, it is the last night so the mountiain phase is nearly upon us!
Saturday 3 Nov - Pingboche 3989m to Amadablam Base Camp 4640m
Before we headed up to Base Camp we went to the local monastery for a puja which is a blessing ceremony for health and happiness. The monastery was absolutely freezing and the puja went on for a couple of hours. By the end I thought I was going to develop asthma with all the incense clogging the air whilst out altitude heads were made just that little bit worse with drum beat and rice being thrown all over the shop. However, we have now been blessed for the first section of the journey and given a prayer scarf to prove it.
The trek up to camp was seriously hard going as it had a huge jump in altitude. At around 4400m my head started banging and the suffering started. My legs went weak and it was hard to keep walking onwards. I was nearly on my knees by the time we reached the final rise into the camp site, I didn't realise altitude could be so mean.
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