We didn't really know anything about Cabo before we left; it's not in any guide booksand we didn't do any research but we did know that we had to get to Castillo then find another bus, then get one of the 4 x 4s that shuttles back and forth from the town as there is no roads in over the sand dunes and beaches. After bargaining with the driver for a while and chatting to some of the people who had just come the other way, we got on an extremely overloaded jeep- type thing with some Dutch biologists and a couple that owned the only restaurant in town. We were all sitting on top of each other and the road was really bumpy but such good fun. The sand dunes go on for about 5km then there's another drive over the huge, vast beach. A whale had been washed up on the beach and was rotting away, covered in birds, and as in Punta De Diablo there was a staggering number of dead sea lions and penguins. Apparently there had been an oil spill off the coast and no one had bothered to clean up the dead animals.
The village consisted of wooden shacks that looked about 50 years old with a few stores selling food, home made clothes and jewellery. The 'hostel' that we were staying in was literally a shack on the beach, no electricity or running water just a fridge powered by a car battery. Our rooms had candles in them and the shower was heated by gas, which meant you had to light it once the water was running, slightly terrifying! The owners were lovely, smoked dope constantly and had an evil dog, 'el perro diablo', that just masturbated and growled all the time. Fernando was a fisherman and when he heard we were English he just said 'ahhhh, Nottingham Forest' (we didn't even tell him we were from Notts). It turned out that his Uruguayan team played Forest in the 70s and he still remembered it (I think he was still under the impression that they were good as well.) He spoke a tiny bit of English and in the end Nick gave him his Forest shirt that he'd been carrying around and Fernando was so chuffed and immediately went to show all of his friends!
The five of us walked over the sand dunes and found a load more dead sea lions, some were absolutely huge, being eaten inside out by maggots, they were strangely fascinating though! Steve actually videoed one of them, weirdo.
That night we walked down the beach to the restaurant that the couple on the jeep owned. Most of the houses had no electricity so the beach was completely pitch black, and we only had tiny torches. Karen thought it was hilarious to flash it at the rocks and scare me into thinking they were more dead sea lions. The lighthouse was the only other light and the prospect of tripping over a massive dead sea creature would probably scar me for life.
The restaurant was literally on the beach and the seafood was incredible. Nick and me shared a huge paella, which was absolutely perfect and full of amazing fish and sea food. Steve pissed the chef by asking him how many prawns were in his meal and if they had their 'clothes' on.
We got back to the hostel to find that Fernando and the girl (I can't for the life of me remember her name) had gone to bed and the whole place was dark so was sat drinking red wine by candlelight in mine and Nick's room (we had booked a dorm but they let us stay in the double room for free) listening to the sea.
We were woken up by the sun rising over the dunes and filtering through our window. Had a breakfast of homemade bread and coffee with unpasteurised milk (the fat was still floating on top). Rustic, eh? Decided to give the shower a miss for fear of blowing myself up.
Had a walk up the lighthouse and watched the colony of sea lions fighting and sleeping for a while. We decided to leave that day because we had no more actual cash and couldn't pay for anything. Nick and me were going back to Castillo to catch a bus up to the border of Brazil, Steve and Wade were going to Punta del Este and Karen went to Montevideo, and we all parted paths at the bus stop. It was great to travel with a group rather than just me and Nick for once, and we were really lucky that we got to travel with some really good people rather than like the American teenagers from Diablo. Was pretty sad to say 'bye to everyone, yet again.