Flight back to BA was a bit of a nightmare, we didn't realise we had to pay departure tax so had to be escorted back to the payment desk then had to run across the runway to catch the plane before it took off. The plane was falling to bit and water was coming through the window. It also randomly landed n Comodoro Rivadavia, the most boring city on earth, so that 2 people could get off. Just before we got to BA we hit a huge storm, we were not confident in the plane's ability to stay in the air after a lightning hit!
The storm hadn't hit the city yet and the humidity was unbelievable. Coming from the icy temperatures of Tierra el Fuego, it was pretty unbearable, but sitting in the taxi on the way back to San Telmo the hot city seemed so comfortably familiar to us. Returning to a place that you enjoyed so much the first time is a weird feeling, and it was nice to be back in a city after three weeks of cold and mountains.
Had to stay in a different hostel from last time (sob) and the new one called itself 'the madhouse'; never a good sign.
We caught up with Rick and Martin from the Art Factory, and had a couple of nights out with them and a few girls that were staying there. We went to the 'museums at night' event, where loads of the museums in BA opened all night and had plays, operas and films on outside them. We went to the one near Puerto Madero and watched Fritz Lang's Metropolis on an outdoor screen with an AMAZING live jazz/ electronic band and really good light show.
Spent an entire day walked u and down Avenida Corrientes looking for a cheap football short for Nick that James had told us about in El Chalten. No luck on the shirt but we got talking to a guy in a sports shop who directed us to the largest shopping centre in Argentina, which was horrible! The kosher McDonalds was right next to Burger King and the Burger King was right next to the Subway… etc. Anyway, Nick went to see Boca Juniors vs Velez Sarzfeld (yes, I don't know how to spell it, and I'm not looking it up) match, and I went to San Telmo market, which we had missed last time because of the other football match.
Went later on in the afternoon because the market seems to grow and grow throughout the morning and by late afternoon is at its full size. In the week San Telmo is still gorgeous with it's cobbled streets and dilapidated facades but when the market is there the area really comes alive. All the gaps in between the closed up buildings are filled in with stalls, musicians and dancers. People sell anything from antiques to sweets, with lots of crafty, homemade things in between. I spent about 5 hours walking up and down the streets buying things and talking to people. I found a 1968 Argentina football flag type thing for Nick and bought myself a few bracelets and a purse. Got talking to a guy called Philippe who I bought a bracelet off and he told me that the person that makes it has to tie it onto your wrist and that each know symbolises something, like family, politics, etc etc. He could have been talking absolute crap for all I knew but it was a nice thought. Later in the afternoon I had a walk down Avenida Florida and almost immediately found a genuine River Plate football shirt for a reasonable price. Ha, I beat Nick on the football shirt search.
Nick: Again I chose to pay over the odds for a ticket and go with the hostel to the match, and after getting through the traffic and collecting people we arrived a good 2 hours before kick off. The atmosphere was again unbelievable, something words, pictures and videos can't really convey; to add to the atmosphere the game was a lot better than the River vs Boca game. It finished 3-2 to Velez but it was end to end action in the final 20 minutes. Waiting to get out afterwards I met Suz and Claire from the Isle of Man who we spent the evening with, getting drunk on cheap wine and beer smuggled into the room.
The following night the four of us went to Desnivels, the restaurant that Rick had been on at us to go to the first time we were in BA. Food was unbelievable, and really cheap.
Spent our last night in the Art Factory with Rick, Juancarlos and Martina and a few others. They had bought a beer fridge that day, but we emptied it pretty quick.