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Midday Monday, I found myself in Santa Marta on the north coast of Colombia following a flight from Medellín. The busy port town itself isn't particularly nice, but acts as a gateway to the more beautiful options along the Caribbean Coast. I came in search of warmth, sunshine, and relaxation following the hectic nature of Medellín.. but man, was it hot!
I had one nights stay at a hostel in El Rodadero, a nicer area than its neighbour Santa Marta, to work out a route for the next several days.
On arrival to the Calle 11 Hostel, I saw two familiar faces in Dan and Georgia, a sound English couple I had met on the bus journey from Salento to Medellín.. they were also planning their next moves.
After a sweltering day of deliberation, I devised a plan for the next 5 days.. Tayrona National Park on Tuesday, Palomino on Wednesday and Thursday, then on to Minca, Friday and Saturday.
Dan, Georgia, and a friend of theirs were also heading to Tayrona the next day so we decided to go together. The most difficult part of day was attempting to pack the absolute minimum as trekking through Tayrona jungle with a heavy backpack in this humidity would be a nightmare.
An early start to Tuesday morning was necessary as we were hoping to sleep in hammocks at the small but beautiful beaches of Cabo San Juan. With a limited number of hammocks available, on a first come, first serve basis, we had to arrive as the park was opening at 8.00am.
Turns out, Dan and Georgia's friend was a sound lad called Tom from High Wycombe, who I already knew having met him on my Machu Picchu Jungle Trek, as well as a few days previously in Medellín. Happy days!
We made it to the park entrance for 8.00am, took a short 10 minute shuttle bus, and then we were off trekking through the jungle. It was HOT!!!!!!! We were leaking sweat within minutes, and by the time we had made it to Cabo San Juan we were drenched. The walk was actually pleasant, just the humidity making it uncomfortable. We smashed it in an hour and 20 minutes in a bid to bag ourselves a hammock.
The setting was almost perfect.. gorgeous horseshoe shaped beach, beautiful blue Caribbean Sea, lush green palm trees.... TOURISTS! One too many for my liking, but that's always the case in beautiful spots like these.
Our home, situated just behind the beach, was essentially an open-plan hut with 40 or so hammocks lined up by one another, hanging from beams, a straw roof being our only cover.
Having only just settled into our new digs for the night, I heard familiar voices from a few doors down.. no way, it was Kim and Katie from San Diego, who I'd met on a night out in Medellín just a week ago, so the girls decided to join us for the day.
The main beach had gotten pretty busy by midday so we sought out a new location just 10 minutes walk away through more jungle.. a nudist beach! Ha
It was stunning, and more importantly, deserted. Blazing afternoon sunshine burnt away the morning cloud cover. We had landed ourselves our own mini paradise for the afternoon. Perfect!
It was a totally chilled out day, and also a great laugh from start to finish, with a cool bunch of people. We all had our heads down in our hammocks by 9.30pm.. wiped out from the early start. Being a terribly light sleeper, and having never slept in a hammock before, I had a surprisingly good nights kip.
Having said farewell to Kim and Katie, we made our way back through the sweaty jungle. Back at the entrance to the park it was now my turn to say goodbye to Dan, Georgia and Tom as we were heading our separate ways. I may have only spent a short amount of time with them but it was a lot of fun.. great people!
I jumped on a bus to Palomino, which is a 45 minute drive, east of Tayrona. The small hippy beach town has a super chilled-out vibe, with only one main road running through it. The streets around the area are underdeveloped, pretty much dirt tracks, some of which have no lighting. However my hostel, Bella Flor, was beautifully made, and had a very Caribbean style about it.
For the next couple of days, in between blazing sunshine and thunderstorms, I had a totally chilled out time, relaxing at the beach and in the hostel.
I had been in touch with Liana, who I'd met in Medellín, as I knew the guys from Edinburgh were in the area. I was heading to a place called Minca, which up until relatively recently, despite its natural beauty, was unable to open its doors to tourism.. the presence of paramilitary forces in the surrounding areas meant this was a place cut off to all but locals. Now, with the security situation in Colombia improving, hostel's have begun to pop up.. Casa Elemento being the most sought after spot.
Casa Elemento is a hostel situated in the middle of nowhere, off the beaten track, high up in the hills, overlooking Santa Marta and the Caribbean coastline. And "supposedly" home to the worlds largest permanent hammock, which hangs over a jungle canyon.
On the bus journey over from Palomino to Santa Marta market (where you catch the bus to Minca), I met a really sound lad from Ireland, called Timmy. He was heading the same way so we joined forces.
By absolute coincidence we bumped into the guys from Edinburgh just as we pulled into the market. Nice one!
Getting to Casa Elemento isn't the simplest of places to get to. A bus will get you to Minca, no problem. Minca to Elemento is the challenge!
The long, uphill, winding road is no bigger than a cars width, and a terrain more accustomed with Mars! There's 3 options - a 2 hour hike.. nope! A motor taxi.. risky, but a possibility, or a 4x4 jeep.. where do I sign?!
We all hopped in the back of the jeep and off we went. Funny thing is, it turned out to be the worst decision, this road was insane! Potholes like volcanoes! It was easily the most uncomfortable journey I've ever had, hanging on for dear life, constantly being flung from side to side, while whacking my head against the roof. Helmets and a neck brace would have been handy!
The driver never made it out of first gear, causing the jeep to overheat. Needless to say, we broke down twice, so we all had to push to get the jeep started again.. well the others did, while I laughed and took photos.
Over an hour later we made it to Casa Elemento, thankfully with all our limbs in tact, seeing the funny side of what was a ridiculous journey.
It was mid-afternoon, and we all went straight on the booze.. think we needed it after that ordeal. So much for relaxing! However, the swinging hammock was pretty sweet to chill on. Biggest in the world? Not sure about that one!
The weather changes so quickly here. One minute, we had our head in the clouds, the next, we were admiring the staggering views over Minca and the Caribbean Coast.
A delicious burger and fries was on the menu at the hostel, which the whole group sat down together to tuck into.. then it was back on the sesh till around midnight.
Sunday was much more relaxed.. the reason I came here in the first place. However, it was tinged with sadness as the guys from Edinburgh, and Timmy, were leaving, it would also be the last time I'd see them. They're a great bunch and a lot of fun!
Every cloud has a silver lining though.. Matt and Danielle rocked up out of nowhere! Sweeeeet! Then later in the afternoon, so did Roz, who I did the Machu Picchu Jungle Trek with. Awesome!
We had a proper afternoon/evening of relaxation, barely moving our asses off the hammocks while admiring the scenery. The sunset was pretty special too, producing an amazingly colourful sky!
The journey back down to Santa Marta was just as ridiculously uncomfortable as on the way up, minus the breakdowns. Never again!
It's midday on Sunday, I've picked up the remainder of my luggage from the hostel in El Rodadero, and now I'm waiting for a bus that will take me to Cartagena.
Adiós xx
- comments
Mick Hindle Yes Grezza although when you saw 40 hammocks in a hut that must have been a nightmare. Plenty of heavy breathing I would say!!
Grez You'd have been thrown out Mick! Bet your hammock etiquette is shabby as...