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Phitsanulok - Thailand (population 80,300)
I arrived at Bangkok train station in good time for my 8:30 train the Phitsanulok. Six hours later and 371km from Bangkok I arrived in Phitsanulok. The train was remarkably pleasant and more importantly air-conditioned. Their train service is a little like Southern Rail…..late! And more bumpy with no Health and Safety regulations from what I could see. Station staff happily walked across lines and some of the stations did not even have a platform. Instead you just hopped off in the middle of nowhere and hoped for the best.
Phitsanulok is a small town which sits nicely between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. So this seemed a good place to break up the long train ride.
Arriving in Phitsanulok I was hit once again with unfamiliar surroundings and the knowledge that I had no idea where I was going to stay for the next two nights. First things first I dumped my bags just a little outside the station entrance, but far away enough that I did not get hassled by the tuk tuk drivers scouting for people just like me.
To my right was I noticed another lone traveler scanning the local non English map (Madelene from Sweden). We caught eyes and soon realised that we were both in the same boat. Going by a recommendation in the Lonely Plant I suggested a guest house just down the road. Having learned from my mistakes in Bangkok I did not hesitate in booking in without wasting an afternoon looking around other places. It paid off - the rooms were cheap, clean and even had a fan (luxury).
Madelene and I then set off exploring the town, had a picnic on the river bank and took a look at a local temple ruin. In the evening we caught up again for a spot of night bazaar shopping and a few drinks.
The next day I took off alone for a day trip to Sukhthai. This had always been on my agenda as it boasts a historical site which is one of Thailand's most famous ancient kingdoms. Covering over 10km squared and containing over 90 historical sites there was a lot to cover in one day.
You can research transport and route options, but nothing prepares you for actually trying out a best made plan. After a 10 minute tuk tuk ride to the city bus station I was hit my chaos - Touts and people everywhere roaming around trying to sell over-priced bus tickets. The noise was indescribable with drivers and touts trying their best to be heard by customers.
I finally managed to figure out which stand to wait at and that you can buy your tickets onboard. With the initial panic over I had to wait another hour for my bus in the boiling heat whilst being stared at by the intrigued locals. One thing about Phitsanulok is that not many westerners stop here, and instead skip directly up to Chiang Mai.
Once on my way I was out for the count on a bus which would not be considered as road worthy in the UK. No air-con and only the hot fumed traffic wind to keep you cool there was little point in staying conscious for the journey.
The bus was supposed to take an hour, but it was more like two by the time I arrived. Every town looks the same as you pass through, so I was hoping the bus conductor would notice the only white withering westerner on the bus and give be a shout when we arrived. However this did not happen and I ended up missing my stop. Now in the UK if this was to happen then it's game over - but in Thailand things are very different. Instead the conductor got on the phone to an approaching bus, asked the driver to stop the packed bus in the middle of the road and guided me across the road and put me on bus travelling back in the direction we'd come. Unbelievable what these people will do for one another.
On arrival at Sukhothai historical park I hired a bike and started by mammoth bike ride around the site. The pictures tell the rest of the story.
Now it was time to get home (Jesus Christ). I was told how to stand and wave the LAST bus back home down from. Pointing your finger or thumbing a driver down is not the done thing here - Instead you wave your hand up and down like you're trying to fly. As the bus approached I did exactly as I was told to, but did the bus stop……like hell did it!
Panic once again set in knowing that I would have no way of getting back home for the night. But in true Thailand style the owner of bike rental shop ran out with a red flag and stood in the middle of the road waving franticly to get the drivers attention. Like a knight in shining armor the owner managed to stop the bus! I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to make it around the rest of Asia on my own ;-)
This was a great afternoon and so worth the travel pain subjected on me. I rounded off the day with dinner and a few drinks with Madelene (bottle of whisky bought at the bar - only 5 pound) before making my way back to the train station for my next seven hour (plus a two hour delay) train ride to Chiang Mai.
Guest House - Lithai Guest House (7/10)
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