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We are still approximately 1200 kms from San Pedro De Atacama, our next 'must go to' destination, which is back over the border into Chile. So we decide to break the journey up and book accommodation in Cordoba. In 2006 this town was awarded the title of Cultural Capital of the Americas and boasts the oldest building in South America, as well as many churches and museums. The Jesuit block has also been given the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded by the Jesuits in the 16th Century who, apart from building the many churches, estsblished the city's university which now boasts100,000 students. All courses are free.
It's 12 hours on the bus and we arrive early evening to find our next Airbnb accommodation. We are in another well furnished and spacious one-bed apartment not too far from the centre. Although the area seems safe, its's the usual Fort Knox security with a series of locks on the door and bars on every window.
We decide to take a one-hour guided tour of the first Jesuit church and the attached university to understand a bit more of the history. We arrived at the rendevous point for the tour outside a church. Coming from the 'non-christian' UK (ref: David Cameron vs the people, 2014) we were noting the number of people crossing themselves as they passed. We got so engrossed with playing the 'will she cross, won't she cross' game that it was a while before we realised that we are waiting at the wrong church! By the time we find the right one (Manzana Jesuitica) we have missed the beginning of the tour and probably the main bit we wanted to hear about. We join on the tour anyway.
The guide speaks in English(ish) and although his English is probably perfect, its hard to understand in his speedy, heavily accented voice. The church, however, is beautiful with high gold vaulted ceilings, religious murals and statues. We go behind the locked doors and into some of the huge rooms holding leather-bound books made with goat skin dating back to the 16th Century. There are maps of South America giving a very different political look to today's South America - Peru was much larger, Bolivia wasn't land locked, etc. We go into the graduation hall where we are told about the examination process pre 1920's. In this hall there would be approximately 60 Professors who would question the hopeful new doctorate for two days. There are also another 100 seats in the hall for the public to view the proceedings. If the student passed, the student's lecturer would get a gold ring and the new doctor would get to ride a donkey around town. Nice gesture!
As Easter is approaching there are a programme of choir performances in the various churches in the evening. While neither of us are religious it was beautiful to listen to their perfectly harmonised voices in the spectacular setting inside the church.
There is also a stunning church named The Church of the Sacred Heart that has two towers, but a spire only on one. We hear that the missing spire is intended to show the imperfections of humans. Our cynical thoughts lead us to believe it is nothing so profound and simply the budget run out.
We also go to a couple of art museums including the Museo de Bellas Artes, set in a beautiful neo-classical building that was again more impressive than the contents. It was lit at night with intense colours of the rainbow that gave it a presence in an otherwise grey town.
As it is Easter weekend, the town virtually closes down for four days from Thursday to Sunday, limiting our opportunities for futher sight-seeing. Whilst it might be hard to feel sorry for us, the truth is we are both suffering from travellers fatigue, so weren't too worried. Anyone who has done anything similar will know that you usually hit a stage where you need to change the tempo. We have been to three quite large cities in a row, all of which have similar museums, churches, plazas, etc and we are losing some interest. We are both craving getting back to nature. It is also tiring always planning where to go next, how to get there, how long we stay, checking transport options, decide how long for, whats to see/do, book accommodation, pack/unpack ..... pack/unpack.... Anyway rant over, it is certainly better than work.
Being a student town there are many restaurants and bars and at one tapas restaurant we try gizzards (the bit you usually get squemish about when dealing with the Christmas turkey) that really taste delicious. We go to a bar and get chatting to a Uruguaian. There is great music on in the bar and we don't leave till 4am with a huge bar bill. A night off the wine and on the spirits and a bit of generosity was a huge mistake!
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