El Calafate - meat! Asado and parilla, lamb, beef, red wine, kit shops, surprise suite in fancy hotel, estancia, horses, views, pampas, gauchos, mountains, glaciers, unpaved roads, sunshine... Best bits - driving out to the estancia, watching the pampas become the mountains with the sun streaming down onto the glacier, so utterly beautiful... Lots of nothing...

Torres del Paine - glaciers, mountains, Andean condors, valleys, ice, sunshine, tent, heavy bags, super noodles, trail mix, sunrise over the Torres, huge mileages, views, knees, feet, empty expanse of country, wind, green, single file, poles, blue glacial lakes... Best bits - rediscovering self sufficient trekking, sunrise over the Torres, incredible scenery, the weather!

Navimag Ferry - Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, beautiful weather, amazing views, miles of nothing, sea lions, albatross, dolphins, penguins, seals, Jenny and Gareth, awful food, Puerto Eden, Best bits - weather, scenery, miles of nothing!

Puerto Varas - canyoning, water and jumping and rappelling and adrenaline and sliding and tumbling and falling, belly first, head first, feet first, terrified and loving it, lagoons and volcanoes and cows and alpine scenes... Mountain biking, flat tyres, quaso enchaladas, lakes and volcanoes bs sunshine... German beer festival, umpah band, sausages and carne and cheesecake... Crappy hostel with bad beds and rubbish breakfast and noisy dogs and moody german owne...

Pucon - Antumalal hotel, glass walls overlooking the lake, spa and thai massage, homemade crisps and pisco sours watching the moon, fire in our room, massive bed, champagne on the house to toast our arrival... Climbing Volcano Villarica, ice picks, smoke at the top, sliding down the ice tunnels, George totally out of control, Ducky kayaking on the river, rapids, falling in spectacularly, george's look of utter terror, swallowing a river... Best bits - a bit of ...