We're now halfway through our Japan adventure and it's proving to be a wonderfully different country, jam-packed with beautiful, historical buildings, stunning gardens and landscapes, lovely, earnest, humble people and incredibly well thought out and punctual transport infrastructure.It's not as different as my preconceptions, which involved black being white and people watching TV via implants whilst levitating their way across the city, but there is a clear contrast in way of life.For example, we've now examined two major cities and not found a single piece of graffiti... nor have we found any beggars or even a shady street to avoid.We can't nail down exactly what it is they do in Japan (possibly a strong sense of respect for their environment and those around them, although it might be the "no scribbling here" signs), but it is right and we are impressed!

Our first venture into Tokyo was quickly filled with confusion when the metro ticket machine completely foxed us... we'd never seen so many buttons, options and orifices!Beyond that, the Tokyo metro map is like a plate of spaghetti, where each spaghetti-crossing is labelled with half a dozen distinct Japanese symbols - not fun for anyone who's not autistic.The metro trains are, however, run very professionally - fast, regular, roomy, temperature-controlled and they don't stop mid-tunnel whilst the driver whinges about red lights... the London Underground has a lot tolearn!

Oddly enough, the toilets have proved a source of considerable amusement for us... again, it was initially the bewildering array of Japanese-labelled buttons, lights, dials and warnings (we think) on the combination toilet and bidet that left me worrying I was about to leave a public toilet with a very sheepish expression and drenched clothes.Out of curiosity, I did get a Japanese lady to explain the buttons to me... Em's curiosity, however, led her to actually test-drive the bidet function, resulting in some near-hysterical giggling from our en-suite!I later gave it a go with a similar outcome - highly recommended!Ha ha!

Getting back to what we came to see... we've found the cities of Tokyo and Kyoto to be stuffed with beautifully preserved temples, shines, castles and gardens.I was initially perplexed at how these ancient buildings could be in such good condition, but I've since worked it out: they've all been burnt and re-built... many times over!Every time there's a fire, the Japanese earnestly set about re-building... in wood, of course... and they actively encourage the burning of incense both outside and within these fantastic, great tinderboxes!Thankfully, fire-suppression systems and lightning conductors are now installed as standard.

In keeping with the general foreign-language-speaking trend throughout our travels, Emma has swiftly mastered some basic Japanese phrases whilst I often still struggle to pull the word for "thank you" from my lame memory - my not-always-effective memory jog is to think "Harry Gateau" when I'm in need of "arigato".Rather sweetly, when Em does produce her phrases, it always results in delighted surprise and giggling from the female recipients (and some of the men!)... at least we think it's delighted surprise!

At this stage in our travels (two thirds in), we've run in to some serious over-spending concerns.In part I blame the pitiful state of the Great British Pound, however our appetite for sky dives, SCUBA dives, plane rides, helicopter rides and fine dining could be a factor...Given the credit card balance, this month was the first time in my life when I was actually hoping to find evidence of serious credit card fraud whilst scanning my statement - no such luck!

Next on our agenda is Hiroshima and then on to Sapporo to sample the beer and the snow!

All the best,

Chris (and Em)