On trekking in Ladakh (or how to get a tummy virus at 4000m)
Hiking across this land is indescribable. A multi color rock landscape ranging for hundreds of kilometres around us, some powerful streams rushing down from a melting glacier, trails climbing up in the steepest points, trails which then end in a land slide letting you to imagine how to go forward. Our way up was awesome, we did not say much to each other as we were a bit out of breath but especially because we were focused on the impressive nature around us. We reached Rumbak, a village at 4000m where few families live in a very much "Tibetan" style. A lama-a Buddhist monk- was visiting the village to bless houses so after our efforts we were rewarded by a good cup of chai and him chanting and praying as a background.
Since this moment things started to get slightly less spiritual...as Ed started to be very very sick.Believe me, that is not the place where you want to be sick as you are several hours of walk from the closest actual road and the only toilet is a whole in the ground. For a while we struggled to understand wether he was suffering from the altitude or from some infection. In the night we convinced ourselves it was the latter. Poor Ed! I think the most hilarious bit of the whole adventure was seeing him rushing to the hole/toilet while a group of super-spiritualist was practicing early morning yoga. I mean, if I hadn't been so worried about the situation I would have totally made a video...! Anyway,as you know, he is a tough animal so while throwing up he even managed to hike his way down to more civilised areas. Big big respect. After taking some antibiotics for a couple of days he is now feeling good, let' s say he just looks very very slim! The other interesting aspect at this stage is that I got the same stuff since yesterday...and my body is slightly less tough than his! After loosing all of my body fluids in various ways you can picture by yourself Ed had to take me to the local hospital to get intravenous glucose and magic injections to stop the puking. The hospital itself was quite an experience but thankfully they see this kind of stuff very often so they sorted me out quickly and I am now in bed getting back to normal ( well much thinner than normal).
Don't ask us how but unbelievably we managed to keep the mood up. We must be very positive people to start with! And I guess you have to accept these kinds of unexpected events when you adventure in such remote corners of the world. Ed is now going for a bike ride towards the highest pass in the world and we are thinking of going with the bike to a big buddhist celebration in a local monastery tomorrow.
I am eating rice and bananas and I hug you all!