Among the villages of the Quebrada Tilcara is by far the most arty and hippy one. It's home to a lot of poets and other artists, and to a good bunch of young people who are running small businesses: grilling steaks on the road or selling small local art-crafts. We had quite some fun on this village, mainly because we ended up staying in a sort of home-stay owned by a disturbed middle aged woman. She was trying hard to be the best host, but constantly messing up everything in a clumpsy way and never, NEVER, stopped talking. Unbelievably she did not come across as totally unpleasant and, thanks to her,we learnt a lot of the local history. While digging to build her house she found so many objects and fossiles dating back up to 9000 years ago...
Besides the sweet crazy lady the highlight of our time in Tilcara was a night at Don Carlito's, a Peña where we manage to get a table just before the crowd of locals and tourists invaded the place. The concept of a Peña is an amazing one: sit down for literally hours and listen to live folkloristic music while eating and drinking great wine. If you are brave enough you can also join the dancing among the tables. It' s amazing what the combination of music and empanadas can do to your brain.... It' s heaven!