I had to go back to Haridwar from Rishikesh to get the overnight train. It was the worst sleeper so far cos I was stuck on the upper berth again and in with 5 stinky Indian blokes. There is nothing here in Amritsar except the Goloden temple. Another of the "worlds holiest places" but this time holy for Sikhs. They are the blokes with turbans on their heads. This place is supposedly where it all started for them so is sacred. Its also where they had a protest a few years ago and, the then prime minister, Indira Gandhi sent in the army to sort it out. They sorted it and shortly there after she was assasinated by her Sikh body guards. The temple complex is massive. It took me at least 1/2 hr to walk all the way around it. You have to take off shoes and cant carry them they must be checked in and headwear is NOT optional. The actual temple is pretty impressive and I was also impressed by the complex and pool. There were people lined up to get into the temple and they were about 10 deep and the line went for about 200 mtr. I couldnt believe so many people would wait sooo long to get in. At the temple they serve free meals. Everyday they serve about 30,000 meals free to anyone who wants one. They dont care if you are rich or poor it is free to all. I gotta say I was impressed with the whole site being free, even the shoe minding. Every other "worlds holiest place" I have been to has been interested in lifting as much money from me as possible but these guys everything is free. They have a great T shirt "SINGH IS KING" Just down the road I came on a park/war memorial. Apparently in the early 1900's some pommy soldier and his men opened fire on a crowd of Indians and killed a heap of them and this place is dedicated to them. One of the buildings still has the bullet holes in it and they have been kind enough to put frames around them to highlight them. They claim the Indians were inocent but we all know they were guilty, cheating, lyers ... just ask the Aussie cricket team.