Korea was cold, fishy, and calming. In just 12 short hours we drastically dropped in temperature from the bustling city of Bangkok to slowed down winter Seoul. Back to freezing temps for the first time in awhile. Luckily out hostel had heated floors. It felt like arriving in New York as Seoul is a modern westernized city. Though we felt Bangkok and Thailand itself could have gladly taken up much more of our time, the organization of the city and cool crisp air was a welcomed change especially granted the highest proliferation of quality coffee shops I have ever seen. Koreans also surprisingly really love waffles, and they make really good ones in most of the coffee shops.

Seoul is an extremely livable city that we really enjoyed exploring for the short time we were there. We stayed in the younger university area, which was up all hours into the night every night. Most nightclubs and bars it seemed didn't close until 5 or 6 am. We walked through the central area of town and saw evidence of the significant US presence by the massive embassy located on the main road surrounded by dozens of guards. Of course there was a nuclear summit the next week with Obama coming so it could have been under much higher security than normal. It did always feel a bit unnerving to be so close to the craziest country on earth. We walked through the historic hilly Buchon neighborhood where the traditinal Korean houses stretch back in time 100 years.

We found the people in Korea to be some of the kindest we met after the Thai people, and maybe the Kiwis. A little loud and harsh initially compared to the softer Thai tongue. Well, at least until we met the Chinese. They were always helpful to us to get around and explaining with motions how to eat and properly mix the ingredients in some foods when we looked lost. Most providing services were always smiling and friendly, and seemed to take an interest in us especially on our ferry ride to the island of Jeju.

We took the high speed train from Seoul at nearly 200mph to the port town of Mokpo, and then jumped on a 5 hr ferry ride across the bumpy sea to the volcanic island of Jeju, which by some survey is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. They heavily advertised that fact, and apparently we had already been to one at Iguazu Falls, which we would put as the number one most beautiful and spectacular natural sight in the world. Jeju did not let down either, but I wish we had more time to explore the outer reaches of the island. The ferry ride itself was one of the wonders of Korea. We could have taken a 1 hour flight from Seoul, but 3 hours on a train and 5 hours on a ferry can always lead to more exciting experiences than a boring plain ride, of which we have taken plenty. The ferry was a rather outdated ship, and our seats were more like just an entrance ticket to big swaths of floor in the front of the ship. Who knows how many people they would let into the area, but it wasn't too crowded. Most people go to Jeju for outdoor hiking, and every Korean was decked out in all the latest most expensive generally unnecessary outdoor gear, which was funny to see. Everyone claims their little space on the floor leaving their shoes on the edges. Most are playing cards, drinking soju, and eating items of a cold and fishy nature. Everyone was in good spirits. As Leah and I were in a quieter corner a man approached me and invited me to come over and drink with his group of friends. They poured me numerous shots of soju and literally force fed me boiled pork, kimchi, and some other mixture that took a lot of brain power to keep it going down instead of up. They were a group of archers, one self proclaimed as Korean Robin Hood in hilarious broken English. After a big piece of a gelatin like rice cake it was time for everyone to pass out. Shortly before we arrived however a guy broke out with the harmonica and a backing stereo track playing traditional Korean tunes that everyone enthusiastically joined in by clapping and singing along. It was a treat being the only foreigners on the boat and experiencing a piece of classic everyday Korean culture. In Jeju, we were able to visit a waterfall that falls directly into the ocean and some amazing black volcanic rock formations along the coast with fierce waves crashing nearly one hundred feet up the steep cliffs due to the force created by the small inlets.

We did take one short 45 minute flight to our next destination of Gyeongju as we would have spent an entire day traveling over some of the same routes we already took. Gyeongju is proclaimed as traditional Korea due to its prominently preserved Korean heritage an monuments and tombs from the prosperous 7th to 9th century. The town is dotted by grass mounded tombs and surrounded by temples and mountainous countryside. We visited an excellent museum to get a full background on the history of the area and Korea in general seeing some beautiful 1300 year old artifacts. We went to the expansive Bulguksa temple built in 751 though most had been redone more recently after destruction by the Japanese. We then went to one of the highest points in the area to the Seokgram Buddha considered by many to be the most beautiful image of Buddha ever created. It does not look a day old carved out of solid stone being over 1000 years old. I also had the chance for only a $1 to ring an ancient giant 30 ft tall bell on the top of the mountain. The sound was powerful.

One more high speed train ride back to Seoul for a night before our flight to Hong Kong. Buying tickets and getting on the high speed trains is just as quick and easy as getting on the subway and it is amazing. Korea is a really small country, but I wish we could have some back home.

We finished our stay in the new suburban home of a couple who had just started their own guest house a few months ago after being in the banking industry for a decade. It was our first Asian experience in the rare stand alone home, and we even rode in the car with them to the supermarket to get food. Super nice home stay experience with a pair of cute well cared for dogs To play with, which is also very unusual. We could definitely come back to Korea, but next time in the summer.